Fugly boat

Discussion in 'Inboards' started by aktmboyd, Sep 4, 2014.

  1. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Not really following you here, but a heavy engine mounted toward the centre of the boat is going to depress the bows, compared to lighter outboard(s) planted on the transom. But the angle of the shaft drive will affect that as well.
     
  2. aktmboyd
    Joined: Oct 2013
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    Location: Kimmirut, Nunavut

    aktmboyd Senior Member

    It has to be v-drive. The boat is only 22'. I have never owned or ridden in an inboard boat. I am not too concerned with speed, but I would like to be able to do 30-40 knots is this a unreasonable speed for an inboard built like this.
     
  3. aktmboyd
    Joined: Oct 2013
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    Location: Kimmirut, Nunavut

    aktmboyd Senior Member

    30-40 knots is WOT. Cruise speed will be much slower obviously, maybe around 20-25 knots. I am wanting to go with something that is more so on the side as your name implies Efficiency, that's why the diesel. But still remaining usable and have a well protected prop. This will all be getting done on my spare hull, trial and error is fine. The picture of the boat is an old one. The cabin is gone and getting rebuilt as we speak, hull sanded and painted as well. I am going to something quite a bit lighter rather then the 3/4 ply that is on now. I have bought a 2008 150hp ETEC, actually I stole it for $2000. the only problem is it's a 25" leg so I ordered up a Bob's machine shop 4" set back hydraulic lift to compensate. Still waiting for that should be here in a couple of weeks. None of this is a good set up for the boat but it's what is available. Once the snow cleared this summer I was able to look at my second 60 everude, it's screwed locked up solid and a smashed bottom end and lots of pieces missing. I sourced out a reman power head at $1600, And I was able to find a reman bottom end at another I think it was in the 1500-$2000 mark. So for a 25 year old motor that still could chew another grand in money I was farther ahead with the newer ETEC. This boat will work in this format but I don't think it's what I want. Any six cylinder 2-temp is going to chew the fuel down, oh the sixties are triples so there is six cylinders combined and I am positive even with excellent tuning and new fibreglass reeds they will be harder on gas than the ETEC. How can I say this other then help me get this diesel, diesel, diesel, diesel into my boat. It's the same old mid 90's P-pump turbo'ed 5.9L Cummins as before. I am not sure if I need a transmission on this or not I know it would be more user friendly with it but direct v-drive is fine with me my 30hp Yamaha 2-temp will be on for a kicker or maybe sold and a new 15 4-temp on instead. Or even at this stage of the game I can stop the building flip this hull over build and glass in the keel flip over glass in the motor beds and v-drive mount and start from scratch and keep boating for the rest of the season in someone else's boat until this is done. We have had a terrible year so far for working on boats lots of rain and then when the rain clears the bugs here are overwhelming. Also there are no garages or shops or anything like that for working in so it all has to be done out in the elements. As I said earlier I know nothing about keeled in-boards other then they are a good way of protecting a prop and help to stabilize a boat.
     
  4. aktmboyd
    Joined: Oct 2013
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    Location: Kimmirut, Nunavut

    aktmboyd Senior Member

    On a v-drive boat where is the force applied. Down by the prop or through the shaft to the v-drive unit itself.
     

  5. aktmboyd
    Joined: Oct 2013
    Posts: 164
    Likes: 1, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Kimmirut, Nunavut

    aktmboyd Senior Member

    After searching a bit this looks like the easiest way to go.
     

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