Fuel system question

Engineers suck. Nothing practical. All theory.

 

It's the corrupt regulators and regulations that suck. The engineers have nothing to do with the final regulation. They are just as screwed as the customer.

 

It is a design issue here. I am probably going to remove the threaded sections enough to get a screwdriver by and get them remachined or do it myself.

First, I am going to try an offset phillips, but need to heat and bend one custom.

 

I need to custom build this tool. Phillips or hex drive with about 1/2” offset to the driver. No room for sockets due to proximity to tube.

Call it a z drive.

 

Would these work? Lots of cheap offset screwdrivers in a google search

 

Nope, there is no room to develop any torque down in there.

But I could have a friend cut the offset end off and tack weld it to a screwdriver. I don’t weld.

When I get my hand down in there to try the wrench, there isn’t enough space for my hand and the wrench or even the wrench much. It is a horrendous task and I spent weeks messing with it.

It MUST be driven from above the deck..

 

Man, I hate it for you Fallguy. I wish you nothing but success with it.

 

Milwaukee 1/4 in. drive Multi-Bit Mini Ratchet Mfr# 48-22-2950 - Ace Hardware https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/ratchets/2040751?store=19169&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155428128&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJE4Axnqz3uouzevT8q0XEeTN&gclid=CjwKCAiAlrXJBhBAEiwA-5pgwiBKyTuwWAWBEo-WZa_lh_3Ns2GH49npJDF_rzpfi4rr2tQT7QcqcxoCBDQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Titan 1/4in Swivel Head Bit Driver https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/ratchet/p/titan-1-4in-swivel-head-bit-driver/1339247_0_0

 

The focus tube is almost touching the screw head so no room for the swivel head bit or the other one..

 

Gotta get to the lower scew from above the deck.

 

If they offset the top hole and gave me say 1/4” opening, I could use a regular screwdriver, but they line up the holes in their manufacturing process so you run one bolt thru, but then everything has to work perfectly together, including side access and I cannot get the normal offset phillips in with my hand, too.

The top is epoxied on, so maybe, I could cook it and turn it, but then risk ruining the gas resistant epoxy seal.

The top land also has to be enough for the gasket as well.

 

Got it. Remove the top screws. Take a longer machine screw and file a Philips head on it. Grind the threads off just were the head goes in the lower screw head. Thread the machine screw down into the top holes until you get to the ground away bit and then seat the Philips head. As you get a turn or two, the machine screw will thread into the top threads and you should be able to run the bottom screw out the rest of the way. Worst case you will have to tap a Philips bit, and thread and locknut the damn thing to the machine screw under the top flange x 5.

 

The size of the Phillips opening in the screw seems almost a little small as compared to the head of the screw. Normally I would grab a PH2 size screwdriver for a 3/16 inch screw

I am wondering if this opening is purposefully made smaller to require a smaller PH1 bit than standard. I checked out a couple of PH1 Phillips screwdrivers that I had here and found that the shank
size was about .18 inches which should go through the top hole and line up with the bottom
There should not be a lot of torque required to tighten the screws.
Might be worth a call to Moeller's customer service department

 

The top is threaded and under 0.125”. I considered trying to grind a screwdriver down to fit down thru, but figured I’d weaken it so bad; it’d twist.

But if I can make a long machine screw into a Phillips drive; it could just work as is and worth the attempt.

It doesn’t take a lot of torque, but I have a bad time getting all 10 screws to enough torque independent of each other to make it work.

I’ll be back at the boat about 12/13 and give it a try. Thanks for all the engagement fellas.

 

If the plan is to use the machine screw to engage the upper threads and turn the bottom screw into the plastic, something might strip ( more than likely the plastic ) as the travel per revolution
would be different unless the threads were the same pitch. I am guessing here, but I suspect that the lower screws would be more like a sheet metal screw with a coarser pitch??
Just thowing it out there