Replacing the plywood floor on my boat

Discussion in 'Materials' started by baranx4, May 13, 2006.

  1. baranx4
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Northeastern Pa.

    baranx4 Junior Member

    I'm wondering if it would be better to go with 1/2 inch ply and use 8 or 10 oz fiberglass cloth with epoxy or if it would be better to just use 3/4 inch ply and just epoxy it. Thanks.
     
  2. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
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    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    Depends on the boat and what you're using it for. Could you offer some more details?

    PS- Please post new questions only once.
     
  3. baranx4
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    baranx4 Junior Member

    22 center console
     
  4. wdnboatbuilder
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: Cape Coral Fl

    wdnboatbuilder Senior Member

    why would not glass over the 3/4? all the sand you will grind in from your feet, I believe it will grind through just the epoxy.
     
  5. longliner45
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    longliner45 Senior Member

    1/2 inch ply will be much easier on your knees and ankles and on your wallet, I would just gellcoat over the marine plywood. and evey few years ,recoat it, ,,,,,,longliner
     
  6. Hunter25
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Hunter25 Senior Member

    It's very unlikely you will get gel coat to stick with any life expectancy to the usual grades of plywood. It will crack, let in mosture, then you got a soggy floor again. Epoxy is the only way to go.

    The fiberglass skin will provide the much needed resistance to abrasion, which a floor will require. The weight of the cloth is up to you.

    Use the same thickness ply as what came out of the boat. This way you do not have weight and trim difficulties after you are finished. If you will be using Douglas fur, which is what is commonly available, then the cloth is a must to prevent moisture from getting into the ply through checks and surface defects.

    Epoxy the cloth down. Fill the weave or leave it for the texture. More texture can be applied, but don't use sand. Eventually all paint jobs need to be redone. Sand is a bear to remove or repair, use walnut shells or other softer texture that can be sanded.
     
  7. baranx4
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    baranx4 Junior Member

    thanks what weight cloth would you suggest and how does biaxle cloth work? I have seen many different cloths out there. I guess I'll even have to do the underside with cloth as well, but can go much lighter with the weight. I had planned on using 10 oz on the top but if I go with something like 18 oz I can then use the texture on the topside.
     
  8. longliner45
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    longliner45 Senior Member

    I only speack from experiance,, the reason we would just use gellcoat on the deck floor was to keep abrasion to the fish down , our floors didnt crack and rot the deck ,but we redone it every 2 years or so.
     
  9. wdnboatbuilder
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: Cape Coral Fl

    wdnboatbuilder Senior Member

    more than likely all you need is 1/2" ply with 7 oz. just a plain weave. Hell you could probly get away with 3/8" ply, depending on how much webbing you have to attach to. why add all that weight? All your looking to do is support you and your family,buddies, and the glass is just to give you some abrasion resistance. Do it in epoxy and cover all sides edges and you will have a floor that will last you longer than you will have the boat, you will paint once a year if you beat hell out of it.
     
  10. Hunter25
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Hunter25 Senior Member

    Putting down a new deck every couple of years does not seem like a reasonable repair to me. A work boat that sees lots of wear and abuse, may require this type of treatment, but a pleasure boat should not have to.

    Cut all your wood to size, including all predrilled holes for fasteners for chairs, boxes, etc. Make dry fits to make sure it fits with no more additional cutting or drilling needed.

    CPES all of it, every edge especially. This will take a few coats until no more will suck into the wood. Then install it, putting epoxy into each fastener hole as you do. Cover it with 8 or 10 oz. cloth. You don't need the big weave stuff and it will not need as much epoxy to wet out either. Do not worry about fancy cloth types, it is not there for strength in one particular direction, just to protect the ply.

    Then apply the best paint you can. Put two base coats on then a third. While the third is still wet, sprinkle on the texture material until it is covering every square inch. You can tape off areas you do not want texture and this looks very professional. When the paint has dried, vacuum the extra texture off the surface, then apply another layer of paint. If the texture looks too rough, more paint will fill in the texture a little at a time. This is the fastest and easiest way to get a long lived deck. You can use paint with the texture already mixed in, but I have found it is difficult to keep the texture even without having some else mixing it constantly as you paint. Texture other then sand can be found at a paint supply business. CPES is pentrating epoxy, do a search to find out what it is.
     

  11. longliner45
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    longliner45 Senior Member

    didnt put down a deck every couple years ,,,just regelled it, and the thiner the ply the more it gives ,,,,taking a pounding in 3 to 5s or better for a few days is rough on the knees and ankles,,,kinda like the folks you know that work on concrete floors all day ,in those places you will see rubber mats everywere ,to give them some relief.
     
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