keel cooler for aircondition, generator, and engine

I am refiting a Ct 65 cutter ketch with 6 aircondiotining units and two refrigeration units, i wanted to know if i could use one keel cooler with the 8 units and one large circulation pump and manifold all the units off of one closed loop.
the next question:
could i use one keel cooler loop for both my perkins 6-354 and my 25 kw northern lights generator, and if i could could i y in the dry exhaust and weather or not the dry exhaust from the original wet exhaust would be the proper way to purge the dry exhaust or would i be better trying to dry exhaust out of the mizzen mast some how.
thanks for any bodys direction
Dennis

 

On a boat everything eventually fails, so why loose everything to save a few bucks?

A separate keel cooler for both engine & noisemaker would be a given.
It allows the use of the engine stock cooling pump, rather than an extra item to purchase install and service.

An up the mast dry exhaust is great , but it must be carried in a separate pipe, up the mast higher than 10 ft , so no one gets burned.


The biggest downside to having all the fridges and airs hooked to a single cooler is the pump will need to be installed and sized for ALL ON operation , which may be quite a pump 1 1/2 inch?and a 3/4 hp motor.

6 air conditioning units is a really power hog perhaps a Carrier marine unit and multiple Zones would work better?

These use cold water in each cabin , rather than freon , to provide the cool or heat.A break in a coolant line only requires antifreez and water to refill.

FF

 

keel cooler

fast fred i am certain you deserve the moniker, it seems quite fitting, an up date is that i have decided to go with a wet exhaust but still may do the keel cooler for the generator and the propulsion engine however, i feel that since the boat was originally designed with a raw water cooloing i may choose to go that route, i do not feel i have the confidence of exterior hull pipes, i did the math and it seems i would need 80 feet of inch and one half cupranikel pipe on the exterior of the hull, to disapate the heat in an ""all" on situation, given the debri in an ever increasingly crowded water way,

what is the worse case scenario if there would be a breach and could it sink the boat, as i do not think that the engine would over heat it would just cycle saltwater instead of freash, any comments? and would you just use the existinfg water pump that the engine uses throughout the cooling jacket from the block?



when it comes to the six air conditioning units and the 110 volt refrigeration cooling system i think i would like to use the 210 gallon keel tank as the coolant tank and run the 1 1/2 inch pipe to and from the keel tank fed by a manifold of the 6 units and one refrigeration unit from one pulley driven pump and a 110 volt back up 1 hp pump
my question is would a stainless steel keel tank of 200 gallons of coolant or freash water sencased in probably fiberglass, dissapate the heat at an efficiaent rate and is there a formula for that, i plan to run all the lines in tygon reinforced hose to and from each unit.

you had mentioned a "marine carrier"unit which i am unfamiliar with any contacts i can write to?

 

If you are going to a wet exhaust for the main , you might as well just use a std heat exchanger setup. In brackish water you might consider a centrifugal belt driven pump as they wear less than the rubber impeller when fed sand or mud.

Many engines have been watered by wet exhausts backing up with sea water , so do have a positive method of securing the exhaust discharge.

The heat transfer thru the keel tank may be problemsome since you are adding HEAT to the interior of the boat.
210G is a lot of coolant , but if fresh water , the supply may vary , changing the heat dump. 210G is over half a ton , just to cool a reefer?

FF

 

keel cooler for air con and reefer

thanks fast fred
i was not going to use my keel tank any longer for diesel as it is 25 years old and may leak eventually so i thjought i would just use it as a heat dump, ther top of the tank is the bottom of the bilge and as long as there is enough heat transference in the coolant tank to disapate heat from one reefer and 6 aircon units i think it would make use of an otherwise useless space and i wouold be ablre to close up a hal a dzen through hulls and not have to run an exterior hull mounted heat exchanger, do you think that the heat disapation is sufficiednt for an all on operation?

i felt that if i used one belt driven pump and one electic back up pump that i could eliminate a half a dzen march pumps

 

keel cooler for air con and reefer

thanks fast fred
do you think that if I was to use one belt driven half hp and one electric half hp that it would be enough circulation for 6 air cons and one reefer through 210- gallon keel tank of coolant, would the heat dump through the stainless tank through the sides of the keel to the exterior water or would the heat disapate through the top of the tank into the bottom of the bilge? would there be enough heat disapation to efficiently run the air cons and reefer in an all on operation? I had planned to manifold the 7 units together and use flexible tygon nylon reinforced hose, so that i would alwasy have sight to look for possible airlocks , should i have a breather loop at the highest point to bleed the system?
one reason for using the keel tank as a cooler is that it is a 25 year old disel tank which i do not trust to use as a diesel tank for the next 25 years,
another reason i could eliminate 14 holes in my boat,
and i would not have to run an exterior pipe for use as a keel cooler outside the hull.
is there a way i could test the system for heat disipation from approximately 60,000 BTU's of air con and a standard 110 volt reefer, prior to installing the units?
dennis