Flat top barge

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Darren1234, May 25, 2020.

  1. KeithO
    Joined: Jul 2019
    Posts: 210
    Likes: 30, Points: 28
    Location: Michigan

    KeithO Senior Member

    Darren, the worst stability problem would be across the beam since that is the narrowest dimension. You could improve ultimate stability by adding a flotation chamber along each side above the deck.
    upload_2020-7-2_19-30-18.png [​IMG]
    It would be better if the sides could flare out wider so as to increase the volume as a list started, but that would be dependent on going wider than your 10ft.

    Something like this:

    Alternately, simply building wider gives you more margin of safety. It doesnt sound like you would have to move it around much by road after you build it. Things like hydraulic jacks for the stern (built in) to hold it stable when loading can reduce the pucker factor significantly.....
    bajansailor likes this.

  2. Crash5291
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Crash5291 New Member

    You're wanting to be able to trailer the barge and that's a great plan, it opens up what you could do in time.

    Your biggest issue is getting what you build into the water, so ramp width and roads need to be taken into account. That said i'd guess a 12 would be fine and fits standard sheets for construction (although you can get sheets in lots of sizes)
    Keep in mind wastage, when choosing sheets and sizing.
    Far to common that sheet stock IS NOT square, BUT you may be able to flip sheets and work it out simply.

    Front rake only
    3/16 at a minimum.
    Hardpoints on the rake where it will hit the shore, YES it will hit the shore you want that.

    24" frame spacing would be fine (perpendicular to the length)
    custom spacing on the deck frame (parallel to the length) no more then 16" in unloaded areas, but closer where you will be tracking onto it.

    Checker plate for the deck is a great idea DO NOT PAINT IT! Paint the rest but NOT the deck. Sanding the paint and grit crap is just a waste and asking to get hurt. Many years of experience on that.
    i'd recommend 1/4 on the deck it will take abuse much better then thinner stuff.

    a 12x24 would allot decent sheet cuts, and with a side lip/wall you could haul material to an island for the landscaping needs. I'd have to draw up a plan and figure the weights but i'd guess that you could get a tandems worth loaded onto it. would have to do the math though.

    I do know that a 50' x 24' x 3' with 10' x 25' ramp will hold 2 fully loaded triaxle loads of sand and a mini like yours and skid to unload it with. 2' walls on 3 sides in 2' from the edge. Also both those trucks backed on and dumped although not recommended for most.
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.