first timer - Decking for 14' Deep V-hull

Hey guys,

First post, happy to be here and looking forward on all the great advice. I have a 14' Mirrorcraft boat that I'm looking to stat decking in the coming weeks. I already removed the seats, patched leaks, and applied gluv-it to the interior hull.

I'm ready to start decking but had a few questions... I have 2 of the 3 seats (front 2) and was wondering if I should keep these in (floatation seems good) and deck over (2x2's laid right over seats) or removed them completely and build my own frame and put in floatation below the deck.

I have attached pictures of my boat and what vision I have for it (as well as what I would like for it to be).

I plan on raising the front and rear deck and bring the floor up to the gunwales as the pictures indicate. I do plan on installing a removable swivel chair on the front cast deck and on in the rear and have storage in both.

I really don't even know where to begin, should I do the floor along the entire length of the boat or just in the center? Would this be too much wait?

Any thoughts or advice on my ideas? This is my first build and I'm kinda lost on where to start.

 

Welcome to the forum.

This is a common conversion on larger tinny's, but yours is pretty small, so weight is critical.

1x2's would be better than 2x2's and half the weight. Use 1/4" plywood over it, except in the sole, which will feel better if it was 3/8". If the 1x2's (stringers, supports, perimeter cleats, etc.) are relatively closely spaced, 1/4" is fine and lighter.

Raising the sole isn't a good idea on these puppies, as the CG on this type of boat doesn't like being moved up much, before she becomes tippy. A casting deck is common, as is the pedestal chair, but drop the center sole down as low as possible, the same with the rear bench, at least as low as you're comfortable.

Make a splash well, as a wake or following sea can easily climb up the transom and through the cutout.

Don't foam fill below decks. Just seal the "chambers" off and install deck plates for ventilation instead. This also permits making bait and fish wells a lot easier too. Floatation should be along the sides of the boat, not under the sole, so consider two chambers (subdivided is a good idea) running the length of each side. It's not necessary, but some like the idea anyway.

What size engine are you looking to install, as it will effect the thickness of the transom and possibly knee reinforcement?

 

Thanks for your response. You raise a lot of good questions. I didn't think that weight and CG would be a problem in this boat. It's a 14 footer and Deep V. Might be something I want to reconsider.

The deck would only be raised in the center between the two benches (possibly removable). Do you think I should remove the benches and just build a frame out of 1x2's instead? I was thinking to leave the benches in because they already have floatation in them and I can just lay the framing on top of the benches, but if I remove them it would be less weight.

When I do the framing, how would I attach the 1x2's to the ribs? I hear a lot about mismatching metals. Always use SS hardware but cannot find SS "L" brackets to attach to the ribs. It is coated with gluv-it and I plan on painting the entire inside hull so it wont even be in contact with the aluminum so does this even matter? Last thing I want to do is invest all this time and find corrosion down the road.

Regarding the splash well, should I extended the rear all the way to the transom and make it tight so if water comes up and over it wont subside down below? Granted, this boat will only be used in smaller lakes so I don't foresee high tides and waves to be an issue.

I plan on getting a motor (7 - 9.5 HP). I have a trolling motor on the rear now that eventually I want to mount on the front casting deck. I have to keep this in mind when doing the framing and make a spot for the battery up front along with the storage.