fiberglass rod, homemade cleats, tow, uni etc

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Charly, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
    Posts: 429
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    I am thinking now about making up some cleats for my build (36' cat) and would appreciate some advice.

    I see Grainger has fiberglass rod stock- The tensile strength is listed as 100.000 lbs for 1/2 inch. I am not really sure what that means, so... question- is that adequate for a deck cleat?

    What is a good material? I have some dear precious leftover pieces of sitka. What about that... wrapped in fabric and epoxy, with glassed in rods thru the deck and glass backing plates?

    I think the Grainger rods are polyester. Should they be epoxy instead to be more compatable?

    How about, instead, using leftover uni fabric rolled up and wet out? I have lots of that.

    Or should I just buy some ding dang cleats and be done with it? Any real advantages for homemade?

    Thanks
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Sitka would be the very last species to employ as a cleat. Live oak and similar are much better choices. As to the composite cleat, you should figure out how tough you want them and make the laminate stiff and strong enough to tolerate this load, plus a safety margin.
     
  3. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    A cleat can be to hold the boat in the position you last left it. They are important.

    There is no such thing as overkill on cleats and fare leads.
     
  4. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: spain

    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Metal is always best. Many times a cleat is used like a winch..you EASE a loaded line off it with a wrap around. Chafe is an issue. Chafe is the reason chrome plated cleats or those store bought plastic cleats are second best to bronze or stainless.

    Your fiberglass rod cleats would be plenty strong but would require repainting every season.

    Who needs high maintence fittings ?
     
  5. charlyIII
    Joined: Oct 2012
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    Location: st simons island ga

    charlyIII Junior Member

    I had about convinced myself that it was too much trouble to make them myself, so I did a quick look around for some aluminum 8" deck cleats. About 85$ apiece. Yikes. I thought I was wrong, but maybe I was mistaken.:D... Plastic would be cheaper, but still...

    Oak aint cheap either, but I could probably find some. I was thinking with the sitka, that the body and horns would basically be a core, with the bulk of the strength in the lay-up. What about laminated strips of sitka?

    Am I nuts to consider a balsa core for the base, with cast laminates for the horns?

    Or maybe, what about a solid body cast in epoxy with internal uni reinforcement. Has anyone done that?

    Couldn't you use black or white pigment to keep the color uniform when it chafes?

    Any of these ideas would include some kind of glass rod or tow, etc penetrating the deck, and glassed to a backer etc.

    Thanks to all for the feedback. Let me put it this way... How would YOU do it if you had more time than money? I would like to have at least two stern cleats (per hull) two springs, and maybe a bow cleat (I am thinking about a "bowhole" though instead... another subject)
     

  6. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    Visit a second hand shop --money or no money. Cleats dont wear out.
     
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