Fiberglass hull rebuild

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Aransas Flats Rat, Dec 9, 2018.

  1. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Guys on bateau use a full dado as a sole cleat/flange notch. That round thing will not allow enough glue imo. Done after you glass cap. I am not a fan of the method as I figure those will rot someday. I expect they expocy coat all of it. The dado must be hit with neat before thixo or it might go dry.

    I would prefer to glass tab on a piece of wood on the sides.
     
  2. Aransas Flats Rat
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    Aransas Flats Rat Junior Member

    Sounds good, thanks for the heads up on that. Was thinking it might be weak as well.
     
  3. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    846D4589-668C-4D2A-8D3B-2D98FDCCA6FB.png This way as pictured if the batten rots; it doesn't affect sole much. The cleat/batten can still be adjusted for level, mechanically fastened or hot glued, glass taped on the outside. Unlikely to get ingress if glued properly on the top. You can use a 4" 1208 or 1708 tape.

    This is a bit heavier. Use as needed.

    Post edit....the batten is applied to the stringer with thickened epoxy...hot glue or mechanical fastenings are only to hold while epoxy sets...
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
  4. Aransas Flats Rat
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    Aransas Flats Rat Junior Member

    Understood, thanks for the diagram and agreed.
     
  5. Aransas Flats Rat
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Texas

    Aransas Flats Rat Junior Member

    Got the transom core installed tonight, didn’t have any fancy clamps so I drilled a few small holes and used fender washers and sheet rock screws I bumped them up tight until I just started to see epoxy squeezing. I am planning on re gelcoating anyway so I figured the little extra work was a good trade for making sure the we installed correctly. Took a few pics of how I did it.
    7DF349BB-EDA4-4D65-9D15-46F23F3F50F2.jpeg
    The cups are holding up bondo spreaders to hold the thinkened epoxy in were I over drilled with a hole saw were the drain plugs are.
    5BCC07DB-6A8A-45B9-BE44-8848BB5E481F.jpeg
    If I am thinking correctly I need to tape the motor boards to the hull skin before adding the bulkhead to complete the transom box frame. The way I see it if I installed the bulkhead first the motor boards would only be taped to the core and not the hull skin.
    6DCE1D1A-EC43-42F3-AEA3-FDEEBE7210AB.jpeg
    Once I tape this corner I will install the side core (motor well) and tape again to make this one unit and glass. Then install the bulkhead tape and glass.

    What’s standard on tape layers? I’m using 6” 1708.

    Thanks
     
  6. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    No tape like I said. The knees get bonded to the exterior hull like the transom after all transoms are bonded aft. If you put tapes there; the bonds will be wrong.

    The mockup knees are short and should actually push against the transom top. You can't do that now as the transom was cut short, but a consolidated bond is still good.

    Or you could cut the knees to overlap the transom at the top and consolidate with glass.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2018

  7. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    This is the intersection of the transom and knee at the top. Make sure and try to extend version A to the transom; not the first line.

    B is what I would have done.

    Need a radius at some point, too.

    Some gaps here for thixo is good. Hard to finger sketch fine detail.
    07EAA871-CEBD-40C6-973A-21E197815FE3.png
     
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