Fiberglass grinding mistake correction

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by jsfindley, Aug 6, 2018.

  1. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
    Posts: 3,899
    Likes: 200, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 971
    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    I would think the lighter colored glass was best, the darker makes me think of water or wetness or high "humidity". It's probably ok either way.

    OP, take some close up pictures with strong light coming from the side that will create shadows and show how big of gouges you carved into the boat, or how uneven the surface is.

    In the center photo, the checkerboard pattern faintly visible is woven roving and you don't want to grind into that, that stuff is structural. The outside is yellow, the next layer is mat, a non-directional layer that is needed (smoothness and waterproofing) but not too much structurally, and then is woven roving. You probably haven't wrecked anything, but you'll have some repairs and then some body work, finishing to a smooth surface kind of work. More photos are needed.
     
  2. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
    Posts: 10,386
    Likes: 1,042, Points: 113, Legacy Rep: 702
    Location: Australia

    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    This sounds like it has been an unfortunate exercise of the OP making work for himself, that was not necessary. Especially as it was (apparently) above the waterline, and not much more than a cosmetic gel coat gouge, that could easily have been repaired with no grinding. Now it has become a lot of work. Sorry mate, but you should have come here with a picture of the original damage, and asked how to proceed. Assuming there isn't any structural damage that is visible, and you have not gouged too deeply with your grinder, and the laminate isn't wafer-thin, I would screed over the whole exposed area with a filled polyester resin (talc will do as the filler), then sand it down using a long board. Then proceed to paint the area with a one-pack system that you can get a good colour match with, for the final coat. A sandable undercoat will give a more respectable finish. If the damage and your gouging is basically above waterline, it is not that critical what you do with it.
     
  3. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 1,448
    Likes: 411, Points: 83
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    I didn't want to alarm you earlier, I wanted to confirm my suspicions before bringing it up. SamSam associates darkness with water absorption. I associate paleness with delamination. I could not detect any of the other tell tale signs because of the low resulution on my screen. I hope I'm wrong but I think the constellation I asked for detailed photo of will indicate separation between the CSM and roving.

    Both SamSam and Mr E are well experienced. If they didn't see a problem, then one probably doesn't exist.
     
  4. jsfindley
    Joined: Aug 2018
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: 38375

    jsfindley Junior Member

    These are more photos of the area. I realise now that I made more work for myself, but it will be a learning and growing experience. I need to learn how to fix things like this anyway. There is a lot of water damage on the inside of the boat. It has been completely gutted. I'm sure there is damage in there somewhere. As I said I'm using this boat to learn. By the way. The previous owner gutted it.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 1,448
    Likes: 411, Points: 83
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Good news. The close ups clearly show no delamination.

    Bad news. That is a major project boat!!!

    You said you got it at a great deal. So the previous owner gave you thousands to finish his problem project.

    No interior.
    Mast, boom other standing rigging?
    Sails?
    Running rigging?

    If you think this is a cheap way into sailing, think again.

    If this is an excuse to buy tools, learn how to use them and spend hours playing in toxic soup. You picked a winner.
     
  6. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
    Posts: 10,386
    Likes: 1,042, Points: 113, Legacy Rep: 702
    Location: Australia

    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    One thing noticed repeatedly, with these fibreglass restoration boats, is that the interiors are stripped out, usually with no thought of having the boat nestling in a suitable cradle, to retain the original shape. Which admittedly, in some cases, has already been lost through disintegrated stringers etc, and sitting on trailers that lacked a good spread of support. I saw a very thorough resto of a "classic" glass runabout, which cost a bomb to do, and included "blueprinting" of the hull lines, which would presumably require detailed design drawings of the hull. Slap-up jobs where everything is dug out without regard to what is going to go out of shape, can easily lead to twisted, warped, bowed, sagged, and generally unfair hulls, which is a disappointing end to a lot of hard work, and money spent.
     
  7. jsfindley
    Joined: Aug 2018
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: 38375

    jsfindley Junior Member

    Thanks for all of the replies and advice on this boat, guys. Keep 'em coming and I'll keep replying. @Mr Efficiency, I have said pretty much every other post in this thread that I am using this boat to learn on. I have an O'Day 272 in really great shape. I just want to know how to do the work on these boats. My intention is to some day have a bluewater boat and so sailing across the Atlantic at first... one day. My family is originally from Scotland and that would be a cool way to get there. I want to know how to fix all sorts of problems to help others and/or to fix my issues. I digress. The boat's in rough shape... understood. Please address the immediate project. How do I move forward with the current project. Thanks.
     

  8. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 1,448
    Likes: 411, Points: 83
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Good to know you're jumping in with your eyes open.

    First fair and color coat port hip. As stated earlier, the CSM you ground is non-structural. Fairing compound will prevent the roving texture from printing thru to surface and provide adequate dock rash abrasion protection to the structural roving. You could add CSM back in at great increase of work for minimal if any advantage.

    2nd. Obtaine line plans as originally built. You don't have to go back to original interior, but should try to keep original exterior shape. Some of the original interior furniture is structural and you must reincoperate into your new interior furnishings.

    3rd . Return proper external shape and fully support. You will almost certainly need to add to trailer's bunk system.

    4th .DO NOT remove any more interior support until new piece is ready to install. The remnants are providing some support and hold clues as to location and dementions. I leave one side of old tabbing until things are tabbed on the other. Then grind away and tab in second side


    5th. The typical order of installation of plywood is;
    +transom
    -stringers
    -structural bulkheads
    -non-structural verticals
    -horizontals

    I don't want to overwhelm you with information, more will come as things progress.

    What do you believe are the (dis)advantages of epoxy and polyester?

    Do you want details on fairing?

    In my opinion: a 20 ft Lyle Hess is definitely worthy of restoration.

    Paul
     
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. Space
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    29
  2. Tom Peach
    Replies:
    41
    Views:
    2,325
  3. DougDA
    Replies:
    16
    Views:
    1,195
  4. abosely
    Replies:
    10
    Views:
    1,718
  5. mudflap
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    1,490
  6. Jeeps
    Replies:
    8
    Views:
    1,053
  7. John Slattery
    Replies:
    14
    Views:
    1,618
  8. HG Faulkner
    Replies:
    3
    Views:
    1,340
  9. Dan coffin
    Replies:
    7
    Views:
    833
  10. 67-LS1
    Replies:
    12
    Views:
    875
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.