Favorite Epoxy/Resin Fillet Fairing gel coat combo

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Munson, Mar 25, 2021.

  1. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Location: New York

    Munson Junior Member

    That board goes down 4-5 inches. Although it is not structural I would like to at least seal the whole perimeter, since it will be an open wound. I must remove the existing hatch cover in order to properly mount the new windlass box.
     
  2. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Location: New York

    Munson Junior Member

    I’m getting itchy to catch some stripers,I think I have to re-sand this box,it does not look up to standards.My epoxy, glass and fairing sanding came out exceptional.The paint had debris I did not know of that came out of a used ,cleaned quality brush.MIA are you in the lake George area?
     
  3. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Hog out the rot. Saturate the rest with cpes or git rot. Fill it back up with thickened resin...support as needed..I like to do it all at the same time. The cpes, then the thickened resin.. just gotta be careful..too much thickened resin can catch fire
     
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  4. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    missinginaction Senior Member

    Lake George. The queen of American lakes. I'm in Saratoga County but keep my boat on the Mohawk River so I can get out to the Great Lakes and down to the Hudson. When I was young, back in the early 1980's we would go on vacation up there every summer and camp on the islands. It's still a beautiful lake but it's become so, so expensive to boat on. We have many members at boat clubs around the Albany area that came off of Lake George because they couldn't or no longer wanted to pay the costs up there.
     
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  5. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Munson Junior Member

    I go there every year. I love it up there.
     
  6. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Munson Junior Member

    After a long bout with regret And thinking I could have painted the box a little better since the outside of the box was sanded down to perfection and sanded, so I tried to repaint. The second time I didn’t roll and tip and the temperature was on the low side and the paint job was horrible.I sanded again and and decided to paint (10% thinner like all other times) but this time it was 46 degrees. If you look at the pictures this was done in cold weather with just a brush.It has cracks in the paint like a 100 year old house not maintained. So I progressively made the paint job worse. Can I wait a few months and sand this down with fine sandpaper (2,000) and polish it?
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    You got a classic case of alegator.

    Curing it will require a substantial pause and sanding.
    Polishing probably won't help.

    The base coats where dry to the touch, but not totally cured. When you sanded you scratched thru the dry shell. Solvent from the next coat penetrated thru those scratches into the uncured paint. The re-solvented paint expand magnifying those scratches.

    Do not add another layer of paint until the existing has fully degassed.

    The cracks you see go all the way down to the base coat.
     
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  8. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Location: New York

    Munson Junior Member

    Thank you, you have the science nailed down to a T .I just mounted it,I will wait till the end of the season before I lay another coat.
     
  9. Munson
    Joined: Mar 2021
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    Location: New York

    Munson Junior Member

    Finished product for now(I’m gonna wait till I re-sand and paint till the end of the season)
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    missinginaction Senior Member

    I'm not sure if you used Perfection. If you did, there is something about the thinner that I don't think Interlux specifically mentions. The 10% figure is a good starting point. What you'll find is that the cooler the ambient temperature, the less thinner you need. I've never painted when it's that's cool. However I painted at temps from 60 to the upper 80's. I found that the cooler it was, the less thinner I needed to get a good finish. At temps around 60 I found that a splash and even no thinner at all worked fine. When it was 88* or so the 10% thinner was necessary. 2333n is the solvent you want for Perfection. Relative humidity also plays a part in this. As the temperature declines the RH increases and this can cause issues as well. You know, this is a first attempt for you Munson. When I rebuilt my whole boat, more than one time I built something, looked at it and threw it away. There is a fairly steep learning curve to all this.
     
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