Favorite Epoxy/Resin Fillet Fairing gel coat combo

1)Ok so do not tape outside box,Will 3 full coverings on the outside suffice
2)Do I tape the inside and cover or just tape the inside.
3)Thank you for your time and knowledge I appreciate the help from you and everyone who added to the conversation.I had a few minutes of free time yesterday to read some of that book.I didn’t read all of it, just areas that pertain to the project.It’s a bit tough trying to crash course into a skill and art craft,learning methods, material and terms.I also live in New York and I am trying to time the weather with the project along with everything going on in every day life.I am pulling the trigger on the materials today.Thank You!!

I would make up a cleat for the part of the box where you have a 90* inside corner. You'll have to fillet the inside and tape the seam for the other angles unless you want to get fancy with a table saw and cut some triangular cleats.

Post a photo or two as you go and some of the guys will surely weigh in. Good luck and remember to take your time and have fun with it.

One last thing. I'll give you a tip on a supplier.

Merton's Fiberglass & Marine Supply https://www.mertons.com/

Joe Merton, who owns the business was very helpful to me back many years ago when I was just getting started in my "hobby". If you decide to call him he'll be happy to answer your questions regarding your project and he won't talk down to you.

Tell him Bart sent you (the guy from over Albany way) who restored the 1973 Silverton. If you're in eastern New York he's UPS one day shipping.

MIA
 
On the image of the screw box there is an image of how the screw penetrates from the inside of the box and ends at the outer most part of the wood.If I route it,it will get hit.But if I screw from the outside of the box it will end on the inside.I think this may miss the router
 

Attachments

  • 832FD007-0C55-4956-AC90-10F8E1E2F694.jpeg
    832FD007-0C55-4956-AC90-10F8E1E2F694.jpeg
    120.9 KB · Views: 261
Lets say you have a 1 foot square box. To strengthen the joints you can install cleats (preferably hardwood) into the inside corners. You could cut 1" X 1" by 6" or 8" pieces of wood to fit into the inside corners. Think of a stick, one inch on each side. You place the stick (the cleat) onto one piece of plywood even with the edge, use slightly thickened epoxy for a glue. Use a couple of small screws, if you want, to hold the cleat in position. Just snug it into position, not too tight. You want some epoxy in the joint, you don't want to pull the cleat and ply tight and force all the epoxy out. After it's cured you can place the perpendicular piece onto the part you just finished and glue the other side of the cleat. When done you can just remove the screws. The screws will add very little to no strength to the assembly.

If you're determined to use screws go to a good hardware store and get yourself some decent stainless steel screws. You can buy them individually. Much better than those packaged screws. But again, you don't need them if you use cleats and epoxy.

MIA
 
Lets say you have a 1 foot square box. To strengthen the joints you can install cleats (preferably hardwood) into the inside corners. You could cut 1" X 1" by 6" or 8" pieces of wood to fit into the inside corners. Think of a stick, one inch on each side. You place the stick (the cleat) onto one piece of plywood even with the edge, use slightly thickened epoxy for a glue. Use a couple of small screws, if you want, to hold the cleat in position. Just snug it into position, not too tight. You want some epoxy in the joint, you don't want to pull the cleat and ply tight and force all the epoxy out. After it's cured you can place the perpendicular piece onto the part you just finished and glue the other side of the cleat. When done you can just remove the screws. The screws will add very little to no strength to the assembly.

If you're determined to use screws go to a good hardware store and get yourself some decent stainless steel screws. You can buy them individually. Much better than those packaged screws. But again, you don't need them if you use cleats and epoxy.

MIA
I sent an email to the gentleman you suggested for parts yesterday, he has not responded yet.On another note which is a Godsend, I ordered stainless screws from Kreg and they had a manufactured defect so I returned them(no threads).I am so glad you suggested the cleats.I’m thinking of usually cherry wood
 
You can make cleats of wood or fiberglass tapes.

The screws are temporary. No need to kreg it unless you cannot glass it up.

Anything outside needs glass or it may do the bang MIA experienced when the thermal expansion rates of parts vary. The expansion rate of epoxy and of a long piece of wood are different. A long piece of wood expands more. Overtime, that weakens the epoxy bond. Fiberglass makes the thing more uniform and the expansion of the wood and epoxy and glass behaves more uniformly.

In order to lay glass in the corners of the box; you can just make some fillets or a triangular cleat, as suggested.
 
I sent an email to the gentleman you suggested for parts yesterday, he has not responded yet.On another note which is a Godsend, I ordered stainless screws from Kreg and they had a manufactured defect so I returned them(no threads).I am so glad you suggested the cleats.I’m thinking of usually cherry wood

Munson, Don't be shy. Just pick up the phone and call him. He's a really nice person. Don't worry about being new to this. Joe will be happy to walk you through your project. If he's too busy he'll probably ask you to call him back but he's probably not too busy yet. He was very helpful to me back a decade ago. I was just like you. Just like here, the only way to learn is to ask, and NO question is a dumb question!

If you have some scrap Cherry laying around I can't see why you couldn't use it. If you're going to buy some hardwood I'd suggest Philippine Mahogany. It's relative inexpensive and I've used it for all kinds of things on my boat. If you use it pick through the stock. Philippine Mahogany varies greatly in it's density. You're looking for some heavy, dense piece that you can cut into cleats. Once you see the stock, you'll understand what I mean.

Have a great day!

MIA
 
You can make cleats of wood or fiberglass tapes.

The screws are temporary. No need to kreg it unless you cannot glass it up.

Anything outside needs glass or it may do the bang MIA experienced when the thermal expansion rates of parts vary. The expansion rate of epoxy and of a long piece of wood are different. A long piece of wood expands more. Overtime, that weakens the epoxy bond. Fiberglass makes the thing more uniform and the expansion of the wood and epoxy and glass behaves more uniformly.

In order to lay glass in the corners of the box; you can just make some fillets or a triangular cleat, as suggested.
You can make cleats of wood or fiberglass tapes.

The screws are temporary. No need to kreg it unless you cannot glass it up.

Anything outside needs glass or it may do the bang MIA experienced when the thermal expansion rates of parts vary. The expansion rate of epoxy and of a long piece of wood are different. A long piece of wood expands more. Overtime, that weakens the epoxy bond. Fiberglass makes the thing more uniform and the expansion of the wood and epoxy and glass behaves more uniformly.

In order to lay glass in the corners of the box; you can just make some fillets or a triangular cleat, as suggested.
Thank You
 
Phase one
 

Attachments

  • D5DDA954-C116-45AA-A325-158F3D196ADF.jpeg
    D5DDA954-C116-45AA-A325-158F3D196ADF.jpeg
    159 KB · Views: 313
  • 26B9F1B9-E532-47F4-8791-2CDB1F2EDACD.jpeg
    26B9F1B9-E532-47F4-8791-2CDB1F2EDACD.jpeg
    153.7 KB · Views: 278
  • 1383BE3C-CC40-412B-82D2-C04D78CD91D2.jpeg
    1383BE3C-CC40-412B-82D2-C04D78CD91D2.jpeg
    167.4 KB · Views: 282
Munson, Don't be shy. Just pick up the phone and call him. He's a really nice person. Don't worry about being new to this. Joe will be happy to walk you through your project. If he's too busy he'll probably ask you to call him back but he's probably not too busy yet. He was very helpful to me back a decade ago. I was just like you. Just like here, the only way to learn is to ask, and NO question is a dumb question!

If you have some scrap Cherry laying around I can't see why you couldn't use it. If you're going to buy some hardwood I'd suggest Philippine Mahogany. It's relative inexpensive and I've used it for all kinds of things on my boat. If you use it pick through the stock. Philippine Mahogany varies greatly in it's density. You're looking for some heavy, dense piece that you can cut into cleats. Once you see the stock, you'll understand what I mean.

Have a great day!

MIA
The box is moving along,I’ll post more updates.Thanks Again
 
Last edited:
My router got away from me in a few tricky corners.What is the best method to fill in gouges?Can I sandwich 2 boards , wrap them with Saran Wrap and fill with epoxy?
 
If it's just a gouge, I'd mix up some resin and thicken it so it won't run. Then trowel it into the gouge. After it's hardened, sand it off. You may have to do this a couple of times in order to get the surface smooth and flush.

You may already know this but take a look at the link below.......

Understanding Router Feed Direction https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/understanding-router-feed-direction#

I'll route the corner on a flat piece but I've never done it on a three dimensional part like the box you're working on. You might try getting close to the corner with the router and then finishing it off with a sander. I seems to me that the corner of a box would leave no where for the base of the router to sit.

MIA
 
Pictures would be of great assistance.

Yes epoxy and compression wrapping can be used.
But your wounds might have a better treatment.

Since you are planning on glassing and paint, thickened epoxy filler might suffice.
 
Round 1 .MIA ,the cleats were too difficult for me.It would be X,Y,and Z axis cuts so I went with the fillet.So far 2 coats on inside,Fillet sandwich between joints and the fillet corners.Is there any thing that needs to be corrected from what you see in the pics?
 

Attachments

  • CEB594B8-CD5D-40FB-97EE-761D81121915.jpeg
    CEB594B8-CD5D-40FB-97EE-761D81121915.jpeg
    165.8 KB · Views: 265
  • F94DCC9B-163A-4332-9A77-5DDEBCC2551C.jpeg
    F94DCC9B-163A-4332-9A77-5DDEBCC2551C.jpeg
    182.2 KB · Views: 288
  • D92475C7-F44C-465C-967A-0BA66ADB12DC.jpeg
    D92475C7-F44C-465C-967A-0BA66ADB12DC.jpeg
    176.5 KB · Views: 242
  • 6CD4CDBE-2D34-4109-9C2E-8740EF0A7096.jpeg
    6CD4CDBE-2D34-4109-9C2E-8740EF0A7096.jpeg
    182.4 KB · Views: 251
Based on what I can see you did an admirable job with those fillets for a first attempt. Of course you'll need to coat the outside and then paint. How are you going to attach it to the boat exactly?
 
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making any potentially dangerous or financial decision, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.

  • Back
    Top