Fairing block for helm chair

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by CaptHank, Apr 2, 2006.

  1. CaptHank
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 3
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    Location: Fort Pierce, FL

    CaptHank New Member

    Hello guys....

    New member here, with a question. I want to install a companion helm chair on the flybridge of my vessel (42' Post). The deck slopes to starboard and aft. Is there a technique to form a fairing block for the pedestal to be level and plumb? I started out with a piece of teak and the sander. Now, I'm close... about 1/16" of adjustment. After final fit, a 3/4" piece of starboard would be used between the base of the pedestal and teak fairing block.

    I now have a piece of 1.5" white starboard, I would like to make the fairing block out of this. This same thickness would be used as a backing plate.

    Again, there must be an "old school" method to make the block. I have seen, numerous Posts', that added the companion chair, leaning to starboard and aft. I'm looking for level and plumb.

    Thanks in advance.... Capt. Hank
     
  2. RHough
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: BC Summers / Nayarit Winters

    RHough Retro Dude

    Cast it

    Not exactly "Old School" :)

    You could lay down a barrier then build a fairing block of thickened epoxy. The West System manual shows the technique for building up mounting pads for winches etc. Once the epoxy has set you could finish it and use it for the fairing pad or as a mould to lay-up a fibre-glass fairing piece.

    How is the main helm seat mounted? Could you duplicate that on the other side?
     
  3. CaptHank
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: Fort Pierce, FL

    CaptHank New Member

    Thanks for the reply... I had thought of using that method, but.... didn't think about the barrier. I didn't want a permanent block on the deck. I was thinking of using a round cake pan.... build up the epoxy, till full (trying to keep things level on all axis. If I can make things level..... cut to final thickness with a band saw.
     
  4. yokebutt
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: alameda CA

    yokebutt Boatbuilder

    Hank,

    A sharp low-angle plane works well in polyethylene.

    Yoke.
     
  5. Corpus Skipper
    Joined: Oct 2003
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    Location: Corpus Christi TX

    Corpus Skipper Hopeless Boataholic

    Use a piece of thin panel or 1/4" ply as a template. Hold (with a helper) the panel level (use your eye, bubble levels ain't much good on a boat!). With a pair of dividers, kid's pencil compass, wood block, whatever, run this along the deck, thereby scribing the slope onto the panel. Cut out the slope from the panel, then transfer this to your fairing block.
     

  6. CaptHank
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: Fort Pierce, FL

    CaptHank New Member

    Thanks guys.... I cut the bottom out of a 5 gal pail, about 4" high. Layed down a layer of duct tape on the flybridge deck, tacked the bucket ring with "super glue". Used clay to seal the bucket to deck. Mixed 2 part, low viscosity epoxy, with fiberglass beads and fibers. Poured into ring, tapped the sides to level, let sit for 48 hours. One hell of an exothermic reaction for the first two hours. Didn't harm the deck. Level and plumb on all axes.

    On top of this a 3/4" thick, piece of starboard. Used a drill guide to drill the 21/64" mounting holes for the pedestal. Using a 1", thick, piece of starboard for backing plate. A bead of 5200 around all of the holes and epoxy ring after painting.
     
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