Extra buoyance

EP stands for expanded polystyrene, what is your version for PE. I have 2 types of pool noodles in my extension, of which the one type is giving problems. Bert

 

The technology exists to make them last a very long time, the market that's targeted wants them for $1.99 (US), so producers go for the lowest cost formula, with many different densities. There's no need for a formula that lasts more than a year or so, so that's what produced.

Yes to aging, some, not all, deteriorate after a year or so, some do appear to be a bit better, the problem is you have no idea what you're buying.

 

Yes, EPS is expanded polystyrene, PE is polyethylene (it could be other slightly different formulas though).

The pic is of PE balls, very durable and water resistant.

EPS is fragile in lower densities, it tends to crumble if stressed, can be dissolved easily by many solvents.

 

Pool noodles are mainly made for children. I cannot see that the Australian Industry is so weird to risk lives of children, by manufacturing inferior quality pool noodles what last only one year and then the child dives in the water with a disintegrating product, like you wrote.
Risking many law suits. I have difficulty believing that. Bert

 

Post a pic of your two types of pool noodle, I've never seen an EPS noodle.

 

I have never stated that my pool noodles are made from EPS. It will not help for me to take it out of the extensions again. One can not see much from the photo. Bert

 

This is a quote from you, it may have been a typo, but that's why I posted about PE and EP being different.

 

Styrofoam sheets or blocks are best option

In my experience foams will last longer and is a better option to get better buoyancy over extra load.
Foams like polystyrene(styrofoam) will provide good buoyancy and are widely used in making floating structures like floating helipads and boats and hulls.
I saw some comments saying that these foams will dissolve in chemicaly active environments, I am sure that we cant find such organic solvents(like benzene) in saline or fresh water.

 

My comment on it being dissolved by solvents was a description of it properties when being compared to PE, nothing more.

 

Yes, indeed I have been wrong, however what I meant was, when I did the test with the first pool noodle I was very impressed, because after nearly one month the cut off portion of a pool noodle did not absorbed any water. This was different when I discovered that I had now a few other pool noodles cut up, and placed in my extensions, which absorbed water. Maybe I should have written, "one should make sure that the pool noodle bought does not absorb water when sliced", instead of giving it a name EP. In the meantime I have realised that the balls used by Silverbreeze #91 would have been a better solution. But whatever one does, it has advanatges and disadvantages. With balls, when a big hole is a consequence of an accident, all the balls will drift out of the compartment into the sea, pool noodles most like will stay inside. Foam is difficult to remove (in may case), pool noodles works, provided all of them are not absorbing water after it is cut. Bert

 

These threads come up periodically, "what's the best flotation method or product". People think they're bringing it up for the first time and discovering new options, but they've all been sorted through for many decades.

Most manufactures use a few methods and products because they're required to meet certain rules and pass tests, they can pass the tests in many ways, but they typically use a method or product that can meet the requirement quickly and easily in production, which means CG approved low density foam. The product isn't perfect, and has many short comings, but it meets the CG requirements.

There is no perfect method or product that will hold up forever and be able to keep the boat floating perfectly in every possible emergency situation. So you just need to understand the pros and cons of each method or product and plan accordingly.

 

But oftentimes you can find chemically active environments inside the boat in the bilge or in storage areas onboard. Things like gasoline, diesel, oil, possibly even organic solvents like turpentine, acetone, various resins etc.

Containers sometimes break in rough conditions, or rust through. Although it has nothing to do with melting foam, we had a rotten stink in a boat that was seemingly coming from nowhere, it turned out it was a canned chicken stored behind a seat. A small rust hole allowed it to very slowly drip onto the hull and then run into the bilge. (A little bit of chicken juice goes a long way.) The same happens with paint cans and other storage cans or tanks.

Styrofoam dissolves in gasoline. Say you capsize and gasoline escapes the tank, as per usual. The gasoline floats so while you're stranded on the ocean for hours or days, the floating gasoline is working it's way into everything and dissolving your flotation, unless you have a chemically resistant foam for flotation.

 

Yes, you are correct. I remember a case of a chemical tanker(barge)accident. Its hull was corroded due to the chemicals and went unnoticed due to careless maintenance.

 

Polystyrene solubility

Yes yes! I admit it.
Check this. I referred Polystyrene for generic use. There are many other foams which are chemically inert. I think even different variants of Polystyrene or styrofoam is available in market which is chemically inert.