evinrude 3.3 outboard, Neutral gear?

Discussion in 'Outboards' started by valvebounce, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: manchester uk

    valvebounce Senior Member

    I have recently been given a 3.3 evinrude outboard,it was from a garage clearout. model number-HE3RENR
    serial number-H 9274617.
    It was manufactured by hongkong marine in 1992.[Evinrude]
    I havent tried it yet,but was wondering if it has a neutral position.
    If not,how do you maneuvere in tight spaces.i.e.Docking and tying up.
    Will I have to cut the engine to stop the prop?
    Any advice would be greatley appreciated
     
  2. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    No neutral, no reverse. It takes some time to get used to it, but it is quite common here.

    Most people use the oars to move away from mooring lines and point the bow in the desired direction, then pull the starting cord. When returning, they quickly rotate the engine before the boat hits the jetty and push the kill switch at the right moment.
    The engine must be a good starter, otherwise it quickly becomes a nuisance and ends up in another garage clearout.
     
  3. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    They are perfectly maneuverable turning 360 degrees. These engine are very common in the yachty world I have had nothing else for years.

    I have put 2 new crack bearings in one of these in 1 hour.

    If you have the old point ignition them making it go is childs play

    The biggest problem is water in the jets when the breather cap is left open on the tank. Water is like tar to such small jets.
     
  4. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    AT idle you may only have 10 lbs of push , so holding on to not make way is easy.
     
  5. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: manchester uk

    valvebounce Senior Member

    Thanks for the info CDK,sounds like keeping them in tune is the key like you say.I have two british seagulls,40- and 40+,they also have no neutral,they start well,but the rope needs re-coiling each time,the time delay can be a pain. I liked the bit about another "Garage clearout."
     
  6. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    valvebounce Senior Member

    Thanks for the advice Frosty,they are the old points ignition.Have to dig my feeler guages out. I'm not conversant with the term "crack bearings" are they the Mains?
     
  7. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: manchester uk

    valvebounce Senior Member

    Thanks for the reply FF,I will be using the engine on a 9ft inflatable,mainly
    launching off the beach.May occasionally tie up to a pontoon.
    Looks like the outboard is a viable proposition.
     
  8. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: manchester uk

    valvebounce Senior Member

    I have another query,
    The distance between the seating of the transom brackets and the cavitation plate is 17",this puts the cavitation plate 5" below the bottom of the inflatable,and the prop even more,apart from taking care when putting the boat in the water,will it make much difference.I could fabricate a higher transom,but it might make the engine top heavy.
    I realise there would be more drag,but speed and economy are not really
    the issue.
     
  9. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    It is just a small engine, don't worry about distances. The 5" will keep the prop in the water even when you lean forward to grab a rope.
     

  10. valvebounce
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: manchester uk

    valvebounce Senior Member

    Thanks once more CDK,I feel a lot more confident using it now.

    All I need now is a break in this british weather.:D
     
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