Epoxy & woven for Stringers Single Layer?

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Davetv1423, Feb 18, 2017.

  1. Davetv1423
    Joined: Feb 2017
    Posts: 2
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    Location: port st lucie

    Davetv1423 New Member

    have a 20' sleek craft im redoing from stringers to transom.
    gutted floor and the single (yep just 1) 2x4 stringer, ground 4" on both sides of new stringer "area" and wiped down with acetone

    Currently have:

    Wetted out and laid down 4" of woven roving in center of boat - let sit for 20min with epoxy resin.
    Laid in my new pine 2x4 at around 10', then 4' and another 2' to get/deal with hull bend.

    Immediacy after this tabbed both sides of this 2x4 with 24oz woven r with a s ton of high grade epoxy resin, then did the further 4' and then 2'.
    Project took all of my 1.3 gallons of Epoxy i purchased for $94 bucks also but looking at the work now i see much more was used than needed and this was also done on Thursday and i felt it today (sat) and some of it is til tacky and even some very wet....>??????

    Boat mech/repair buddy of mine saw the original single stringer and was shocked so he suggested "Boxing" in the rear if planning on going high HP (like over 150 to 250). So taking this advice and running 2 2x2 pines up 4' each side of the main stringer in the ready chimes.

    *First time doing stringers but have built some bolster seats prior.
    *Front of stringers (bow) i know is a disaster - and need a solution (saw-zaw tip off then cover with>?).

    Any comments welcome - but main questions are:

    -how many layers of woven do i need with using epoxy???
    *I've read prior woven is overkill for stringers, but also that others are using "multiple layers" of other product.

    -if i need to add another layer am i having to sand anything to do this?
    - i hear epoxy sticks to anything
    - i also have some exposed 2x4 form being exhausted (over) the job doing this all at once / along with 2hrs of grinding.
    -so can i wet out only this top 2x4 or do i need to cover it with another 4" or 6" or 8" strip of woven (i bough strips of 8")...

    -another question would be seeing How (#@#+% expensive Epoxy is - can i used Poly Resin for the 2nd two stringers....?
    *asked the fiber company and they said if i knew the original manufactures choice or product i could but if i didnt - to use epoxy (hence, said the company selling it to me:) - suggestions there?

    *i have already cut floor and used Poly Resin and 1 layer of CSMatt on this..

    -last question (beers on me:) - i hear about boat "hooking" and am concerned. Boat is already blocked with 5 pillars - see pics.
    Prior to the main stringer ad i did level it 100% from star to port if that helped. Not looking or a "blueprinted" boat nor plan on running close to 100mph just don't want to spend 100+hrs and $3k on a boat that runs sideways....

    Any and all help, comments (good or bad) welcome - thanks so much.
    Plz also see pics - transom cut out / started also..
    Dave
     

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    Last edited: Feb 18, 2017
  2. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    Stop and wait for instructions or you may need to remove most of what you've done already. I need to go, but I'm sure someone will jump in.
     
  3. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    I believe Dave you need a bit more than online advice. Maybe someone close by could give some hand to hand tutorial? Meanwhile go to youtube and look videos for "laying epoxy on stringers".

    BR Teddy
     
  4. FMS
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    Location: united states

    FMS Senior Member

    It takes practice. (I have much left to learn) Sometimes a squeegee is easier for me.
    It's hard to get heavy roving over sharp corners. Rounded corners are easier.
    Avoid getting air bubbles around the corners. Make sure you don't leave dry spots. Minimize the puddles. The sharp fringe makes it hard to go over if you are adding a second layer - has to be trimmed, ground down first which is itchy.
    I would stay with epoxy - it bonds stronger to existing laminate and is more waterproof on the wood. It's worth the cost for the labor you are putting in.
     
  5. Davetv1423
    Joined: Feb 2017
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    Location: port st lucie

    Davetv1423 New Member

    Alright Alright Alright

    Cool - thx for the feedback - much appreciated!
     
  6. robwilk37
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: san diego

    robwilk37 Senior Member

    you should be using 45/45 biaxial-stitched cloth and not roving. use peelply where ever practical. buy a small scale and weigh out your cloth so you know exactly how much resin to mix. shop around for the best deal on epoxy, avoiding the shipping charge is essential.

    on my boat (40' mono/sail) all stringers/tabbings are 5 layers of 18oz biax minimum. no matt if using epoxy.

    my .02
     
  7. Scot McPherson
    Joined: Jan 2017
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    Location: New England

    Scot McPherson Senior Member

    I have never had good success making any cloth 12oz or greater bend 90 degrees when wet UNLESS there was a LOT of cloth on either side of the bend. Otherwise, air will just push through the cloth, and the cloth will lift leaving a big fat long bubble on one or both vectors. For angles like that, I usually lay up a few layers of much lighter stuff, say 6 oz.

    I can't imagine trying to make roving turn a 90 degree bend around a timber.
     

  8. robwilk37
    Joined: Nov 2010
    Posts: 120
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    Location: san diego

    robwilk37 Senior Member

    "I can't imagine trying to make roving turn a 90 degree bend around a timber."

    generously radius the corners/transitions... problem solved.
     
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