epoxy paint filler additives

Hi,That's exactly what I learned in building college many years ago,a building built correctly should last indefinately.
These days corner cutting by the building firms cause a nightmare for bricklayers.All their skills are concentrated on making a silk purse out of a sows ear.

 

The I beams you're referring to actually are better than solid timber joists, in most every way you measure their preformance. They can span greater distances without support, they are quieter under foot, you can cut large holes in them for plumbing and other services, without compromising the beam (much unlike a solid limber piece), you need less material to make them and to hold the same weight as solid stock as well as several other desirable attributes.

 

Well then sir,I am glad to say I stand corrected Haha.
It looks like it is modern technology and not another way to cut corners.
I can see what you mean about cutting holes in them for services/pipes etc.
I have seen conventional joists split along the grain.

 

Sounds like every brick clad house in the US with the exception of stud which is 2x4 (nominal 1.5x3.5) here..

These are just light platform framed structures with cladding.

 

I had to rebuild a section of a buddy's barn when a tree decided to fall over on it. It was a truss roof and conventional "stick built" walls and floor. After some calculations, we made some plywood beams (floor) and "boxed" some scissor beams for the roof. We used slightly more material in the roof beams, but got 6' more head room, compared to the trusses and they where a fair bit stronger, enough to place a small hoist, which the trusses wouldn't tolerate. We saved about 15% on the floor joists and this is the only portion of the barn that has remained level and true since being built. I'm now faced with a similar issue on my barn and am looking at the same deal, plywood I beams for the roof, to gain head room and a few parallam's to have a 32' free span opening that doesn't sag (like it does now).

 

Barn conversions

I have worked on barn conversions here in the UK.Old barns are converted into jet set properties.plenty of concrete block are used to make sure they stay up.New pillars to support the roof purlins,and roof height extensions.Oak beams etc.are replaced.
Roof sag is usually got over by re-designed oak trusses,which are "beefed up"We used this method to gain height for bedrooms on a cottage in Brittany France with great success.The original loft became three bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms.
I am not familiar with the term "paralam" is it an external suport to allow free space inside the building? ie-no internal support pillars.

 

No, a Parallam (also known as PSL or glue-lam) is an engineered wood product, sort of like OSB, except intended to replace solid timbers. The parallam is made of parallel layers of wood fibers (hence the name), so they are incredibly strong along their grain orientation. I've seen 60' long parallams bridging fully open, unsupported spans. I know they can be made longer too. I'll use one as the ridge beam in the barn, with scissor trusses butted to it, to gain headroom under them. There are quite a few of these new (well not really so new) engineered lumber pieces, such as LVL's (Laminated Veneer Lumber). Most far exceed traditional lumber in strength, stiffness (and cost), etc.

 

A glued laminate,they probably use epoxy too.Sounds like it could replace steel in some areas.Ridge beams have always been subject to sag over time.I suppose if you are replacing the original in your barn it will give you the opportunity to strengthen the roof spars at intervals along the roof.We find,in a lot of cases the roof has spread over time,so if you are having a complete "Roof off"it will give you the opportunity to re-bed the wallplates.Because of the age of some structures they were only built with sand lime mortar,this causes the walls to spread under the wallplates.We usually re-build the overhanging brick or stonework with sand and cement mortar.The trouble with a spreading roof is the spread isnt even,giving a wavy line.Re plumbing the corners,then using a line end to end brings it back.If you are jacking the roof up to replace the ridge beam,I dont envy you the task.If the roof is coming off,you can gain space/height by adding height to the brickwork,of course this will mean heightening the gable ends too.
I suppose the cost factor is to be a consideration,which always rears its ugly head.

 

Nope, they use a phenol formaldehyde (usually heat activated in a big *** press) as the adhesives on these types of laminated beams. It's cheaper.

When I replace the ridge beam, I'll put in scissor trusses at the same time, which will permit me to eliminate the traditional Pratt style trusses, which keep the headroom at 8'. With the scissors, I'll have 8' on the side walls, but 14' in the center under the ridge. I'm debating making a box beam, instead of buying a LVL or Parallam. I can do this myself with plywood and dimension stock, though it'll have to be deeper, so I'll lose a little headroom, maybe only 12' in the center. We'll see when I work out the costs. My barn is free span under roof, with the widest end fully open, so the ridge beam support is a bit different on this puppy than typical structures. It's also erected on poles, rather than walls, so I can carry things differently.

 

Cant say I've come across this kind of structure,probably because of the climate difference,and building designs in America.I worked in Germany on and off in the late 70's and early 80's.Each floor is concreted onto the inner walls,even in houses.At first they shuttered each floor,which was a lot of work and messing about,but they changed it to a thin prefabricated concrete reinforced biscuit,that was lowered in by crane,and then concrete poured on it and vibrated.The time element and need for excess plant was greatly reduced,and the buidings are rock solid.I imagine areas subject to hurricanes would benefit from this kind of structure.

 

I suppose there is no money in houses that are built to last,although the house prices dont reflect the savings.Big Bucks for someone I suppose.

 

I believe one just has to recognize what it is being offered.

Frame houses in a given development might have a brick ledge cast into the foundation. The model home set out front is brick clad at the entry with German lap on the sides and back. A prospective owner will chose how to clad the entire building to suit as he signs for the build. Structurally all the buildings are light timber platform framed and the brick must simply be viewed as paint free and durable veneer. These are not brick homes even if the owner chooses to carry the brick cladding right around the structure..

In the states light frame houses are the norm and the practice is carried into many commercial structures as well. I framed some rather large buildings with 22' exterior walls and all bearing partitions in light frame. I did quite a few buildings in light steel frame- same same eh?
I passed a four story light frame condominium complex today as I was mulling over this post. The front elevation was brick clad tacked to OSB while vinyl was carried over the rest.

Profit?
The margins are not large in home building & I could not imagine the market tolerating heavy masonry construction being widespread.
Frame houses have long been the norm here and we have greatly improved some aspects of construction as we passed along from balloon frame to platform augmented with engineered wood beams, trusses and joists.
House framing is not much different from boats- miss the scantlings and the structure will yield to the forces set against it...

 

Looks like the UK is trailing behind as usual.The investors here are very cagey when it comes to change.I have noticed the use of engineered beams etc on some public contracts,this is probably because it is funded by public money,so the sky's the limit.
The profits on housing here are pretty good,I worked it out a couple of years ago,taking the purchase of the land and complete build into consideration,it came out at 800% on average.
I retired five years ago and got out of the ratrace,the hardest thing here is getting work continuance,it takes the pleasure out of working.

 

Greetings,

Went through two gallons with lime filler for interior framing and it seems to work well. Did samples without filler and they werent as strong, not enough volume to reach surfaces completely. Edge gluing 1/4" x 3" pieces and breaking after 12hrs. all the samples broke at wood rather than glue joint.

Dave Carnell is the man's name who recommended lime.

 

Thought of something I should do. Before using lime, bake in the oven to get rid of any moisture.