Epoxy amount

[skaraborgcraft]

Depending on the cloth weight, you could use the same amount of epoxy doing just 3 coats on bare wood. You have to fill the weave of the glass cloth, temperature and viscosity of the resin and what cloth you use will all make a difference.

 

[ondarvr]

Calculate the square footage of the boat that you plan to put glass on.

Then add up the total weight of all the layers of glass you plan to use. That number will be about the same as the amount of weight of the epoxy required to wet it out. This is a somewhat close estimate, and doesn't include waste, so you need more than that.

As for how much of the boat you want to coat with glass, and how many layers you may need, it isn't something I get into.

And most epoxies are good enough to last for decades, the differences are more in viscosity user friendliness.

 

[fallguy]

The plans call for 10 yards of glass.

You need to show a picture of the boat and help with the dimensions.

For a panga with inside framing; you are not building a monocoque hull or a fully encapsulated hull, so the glass is for the exterior; generally.

10 running yards may be 30 feet of 60” wide material…

If you give us some dimensions of the boat; we can probably back into the glass plan.

Don’t worry about the epoxy just yet.

10 SQUARE yards of 6 ounce glass uses 60 ounces of epoxy, plus some for weave filling and some for precoating (typically 2 ounces per yard)…some for bonding other things

the glass might be just a single skin or doubled on the bottom; this bit might be in the verbage or on a builder’s forum

 

[Kiry laufer]

Wow, thanks alot you guys Here is a picture of the boat. One of the things I'm not sure about is the transom. i "thought" it was attached to the strongback and encapsulated (only epoxy joke I know) by building up and around it until it was tight in place . The gallon of epoxy is listed but im not sure how in the xxzx do you make an epoxy gallon cover an 18' boat x 2' -2.5'. My only experience is with jbweld 5 min and it's not liquiddy enough to spread out. I would like to go a head and buy my mud epoxy (can I use fresh cut hair or sand to make mud?) So I can attach my ribs together. Im thinking this is the only epoxy I'll need for next 50hrs of work as this stuff will top off every screw hole and 1/8" to 1/4" gap once the hull is applied. RIGHT???. If that's correct do i need to seal coat it. (is this seal coat supposed to be just epoxy without hardener) is that another cost for original gallon of epoxy. I need about 40 joints of screws applied with glue. Cani do that much from 1 gallon? It just seems crazy to get that much. People get the slow hardening so they can make a cup or so and then work on the boat all around filling holes. This slow is ok because it's mud right? The additive will increase viscosity hold it applied and not promote drips, right? I know this is alot but i gotta ask questions while I can. Crazy stuff always happens when I misinterpret instructions.
Thanks
Kiry laufer

 

[Kiry laufer]

this bottom pic is the general spira building guide. My keelson will lay flat and run under the ribs and then attaches to the transom flat. I'll get up more pics of plans tomorrow.id

 

[wet feet]

Never,ever apply epoxy that hasn't had hardener added!!! I'd also suggest that you don't add hair or sand to epoxy there are better products for making filler or putty variation of epoxy.Microballoons for one,which you can add to the epoxy mix-a little at a time-until you achieve the consistency you need.For thickening the epoxy mix you can add fumed silica to minimise the tendency to run off vertical surfaces.When mixing the epoxy you don't really want a cup shaped pot as the mix will go off much faster in such a shape,due to the heat generated as it begins to cure.A shallow tray or plastic dish is the best to prevent the cure happening too quickly.Even so,plan on using only small mixes and maybe having an assistant whose only job is to prepare those mixes,as you work on large areas.The use of a big mix will very likely mean that the majority of the epoxy will cure as a lump in the mixing pot as it gets warm and you will need to buy more each time this happens.

As for 1/4 inch gaps,well you should try to achieve a better fit than that,it takes a little time but will save you money and keep the weight of the boat down.

 

[Kiry laufer]

the boat is a total of 18' (without motor)
Tx,
Kiry laufer

 

[Kiry laufer]

How does the tight joints keep weight down? Seriously, I dont understand. Just no water flowing in boat? Im being serious. Or are you talking 100s of hours? I saw these angle grinder attachments that look like a cheese grater but itsmooths out wood sutfaces almost instantly. Has any used one of these? Due to 4 " disk it feels safe to not wear out little holes.
Tx,
Kiry laufer

 

[Kiry laufer]

The graters were on a popular internet site

 

[wet feet]

How does the tight joints keep weight down? Seriously, I dont understand. Just no water flowing in boat? Im being serious. Or are you talking 100s of hours? I saw these angle grinder attachments that look like a cheese grater but itsmooths out wood sutfaces almost instantly. Has any used one of these? Due to 4 " disk it feels safe to not wear out little holes.
Tx,
Kiry laufer

If the joints are sloppy and need filling with epoxy the weight of that epoxy is added to the weight of the boat and over the length of the chine joints and other gaps it can ad up.

 

[Kiry laufer]

OK, I wouldnt have recognized that as an issue
Tx ,
Kiry laufer

 

[Tops]

Although the surface area of the external surface of plywood (assuming outside of boat only) seems to be around 140sqft, you'd be hard pressed to make it with 10yds x 60" wide fiberglass @150sqft. I would be considering 13-14 running yards at 60" and more epoxy.



PS: Here is the seam/edge detail from my last build, it also includes a recipe for epoxy fillet material per an old YouTube video from MAS epoxy. The sawdust should be replaced with more glass spheres or wood flour if one wants it to be smoother. The boat is quite small so the plywood is on the lighter side, for your boat use what the plans say.

 

[Kiry laufer]

Where did this drawing come from above. Ive never seen that type picture. Im pretty d sure I have everything I got from spira printed out but ive never seen those drawings. Any ideas?
Im not sure i implied the correct error margin of at 1/4". The ribs will be well attached to just below 1/8" gap to not squeeze out all epoxy. I would consider all joints to be sturdy if this 1l8" gap works ok. If i have colloidal silica paid for within15 of me', should I still get micro balloons. Non driver here. I think I'm reading that the colloidals main difference is its a bear to sand silica vs microballoons.

Just to be sure, I get west resin w slow dry to fill in pivots. And then buy a third bottle of regular dry to paint the hull. All off 1 gallon of west resin, or should I keep the west together on just joints and use a cheaper brand to paint hull.

Someone suggested I might not need interior resin but every Pic that shows epoxying shows the Inside of boat being epoxied . This might be obvious, but my boat is frame and.plywood. do I need to stick w same brand epoxy to add coats before it dries. And the gallon of west is enough to cover the hull sides and mud stuff? This epoxy predried must be as thin as water
Tx.
Kiry laufer

 

[Kiry laufer]

Tops,
You're drawings above look so clandestine in a good way! I bet I coulda finished by now with these "extra" drawings. Hope there are more. I could still finish by thurs, Friday pm at latest.
Tx,
Kiry laufer
In pic above ,does it say to cover entire bottom w 6 oz fabric all the way to the 12oz or just a stripe down the middle?
Tx

 

[Tops]

Where did this drawing come from above. Ive never seen that type picture. Im pretty d sure I have everything I got from spira printed out but ive never seen those drawings. Any ideas?

Both drawing are my own work. The first is based on the issues being discussed in this thread. They are not meant to replace authorized drawings from Spira.

Tops,
You're drawings above look so clandestine in a good way! I bet I coulda finished by now with these "extra" drawings. Hope there are more. I could still finish by thurs, Friday pm at latest.
Tx,
Kiry laufer
In pic above ,does it say to cover entire bottom w 6 oz fabric all the way to the 12oz or just a stripe down the middle?
Tx

The second drawing is is a cross-section showing the side/chine seam between bottom and side of a different boat. No stripe down the middle on that boat as it does not have a seam down the middle.