Engine lifting frame

Discussion in 'Inboards' started by mikealston2428, Jan 29, 2014.

  1. mikealston2428
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    Location: aussie

    mikealston2428 Senior Member

    Hi all,
    I'm about to reinstall a rebuilt engine back into my boat.
    I have been throwing a few idea's around about how to build myself a frame for a block and tackle to lift the engine up and put it in boat.
    Any ideas in how I could build a frame would be much appreciated
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    This isn't hard to do, but forget about block and tackle. A comealong is a better option or a chain fall.

    Make two "A" frame legs wide enough to let the boat back under and of course tall enough so the engine will clear, including the hoisting gear. I'd use some 2x6's for this. Bridging the two A frames would be two 2x6's sistered together. Maybe a diagonal brace to keep it from wracking as you hoist. A small block, ready to install is several hundred pounds, so work safe.

    This one is height adjustable.


    This is pretty Micky Moused, but seems to work. Note the trailer winch.


    A heftier arrangement.

  3. mikealston2428
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    Location: aussie

    mikealston2428 Senior Member

    Hi Par,
    Can you please explain the advantage of a come along over a block and tackle.
    Not real fimilier with either ?
    Thanks mike
  4. rasorinc
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    Location: OREGON

    rasorinc Senior Member

    A come along locks on every click of gears going down or up. block and tackle you need to tie off the rope to lock it in position. Come along is safer.

  5. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    I built one similar to the second picture recently to replace my worn out engine in my toyota. But I used a single 4x6 cross beam, and 4x4 legs (that what I had available in the lumber shed). I used long deck screws to assemble it, and a come-a-long to lift out the old engine and install the new one.

    When I was done with it I removed the screws with a cordless drill and put it back in the lumber shed, took about 15 min to take it apart. The longer you make the knee braces, so they come down the legs further, the more stable it will be (just watch your head when working around the engine).

    If you know the weight of your engine, you can figure that each screw in shear is good for about 140 lb each in safe load capacity, so on the dia braces you do not actually need that many screws (I put 2 in each end, and used 3 screws each for all the other connections).
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