engine bed and stringers

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by fishweed, Apr 10, 2008.

  1. fishweed
    Joined: Jun 2006
    Posts: 45
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: san leon,texas

    fishweed Junior Member

    I have a 36 ft Roughwater motorsailer, and the stringers on the boat have about 5/16 layer if glass on them, I have drilled a few holes and the wood is all but gone,the hull looks like a trawler but is thick at the bottom, I am thinking of filling the stringers with urethane foam and adding more woven and glass, and I will try to encapsulte a Stainless steel angle into the engine bed and glass over it and drill and tap for the mounts, any suggestions?
     
  2. boatdude
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 7
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: california

    boatdude Junior Member

    Ha, I had a old wood roughwater.

    Why not just replace the stringers?

    Look for beams called microlam .... they are strong and glass up really easy.
     
  3. fishweed
    Joined: Jun 2006
    Posts: 45
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: san leon,texas

    fishweed Junior Member

    I don't want to rip the entire floor and bulkheds out to do that, plus that the glass around the stringers are solid and thick, my main concern is the engine beds
     
  4. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 148, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    This does not sound good.
    The core of a stringer does more than just take up space; it is an integral part of the structure.
    There are a number of ways of repairing stringers, and I'm not the one to recommend the best method. I am pretty sure, though, that spray/pour urethane won't hold up for long. Whatever let the water in there in the first place (that's why the wood rotted out) will do the same to the foam over time as the boat flexes, water leaches into the stringers, and the foam is slowly eroded into powder. My vote is this: either do a thorough, proper job of it, or don't waste the money.
     
  5. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
    Posts: 3,897
    Likes: 44, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 696
    Location: maine

    the1much hippie dreams

    im with marshy ,, and even with pouring 2 part foam in it , you'll never fill it all the way,, and with the engines torquing, and space,,it wont be long till the first crack,,then the tearing.
     
  6. charmc
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 2,391
    Likes: 78, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 840
    Location: FL, USA

    charmc Senior Member

    Fishweed,

    I was going to recommend that you search old threads here using the terms stringers and replace, but I see that several of them are yours, and that you've had mixed results in responses.

    Some thoughts:

    My first inclination is to suck it up and replace the stringers with wood so they are as designed. I think you could avoid ripping out bulkheads with some careful planning; possibly cut away and repair only portions of the floors.

    I see that there are some sellers of commercial plastic materials intended to replace wood. I've seen many cases of this working on transoms, but I don't know about stringers. One caveat: Check references very carefully, don't rely only on sellers' claims. Some are very good, but you want hard evidence that it has worked on stringer replacement in boats similar in size to yours, not just on general repair work.

    However you decide to proceed, it is very important to find the source of the leak that caused the problem in the first place. You want any repair to last.

    The impression I get is that the Roughwaters were heavily built but had design and/or construction defects that allowed water to collect and eventually penetrate. Other Roughwater owners may have addressed problems similar to yours. There is one Roughwater owners group here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/roughwaterboats you might find some folks who have done this already.
     
  7. fishweed
    Joined: Jun 2006
    Posts: 45
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: san leon,texas

    fishweed Junior Member

    Thanks for the input, I have been in the service and industrial buisness for years, and I know there is the right way and many wrong ways to do things, you fellas are right I will suck it up and rip the old stringers and put the wood back in them, but will still use either stainless or aluminum to bolt the engine mounts,,, I do knot like lag bolts on anything, by the way I discovered the main leak, it was from the rudder seal post , it was attached with lag bolts and was a constant leak, I drilled through and replaced with a stainless plate and bolts
     

  8. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
    Posts: 3,897
    Likes: 44, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 696
    Location: maine

    the1much hippie dreams

    good choices hehe ;)
     
Loading...
Similar Threads
  1. tunnels
    Replies:
    12
    Views:
    2,645
  2. tunnels
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    2,114
  3. E350
    Replies:
    17
    Views:
    1,482
  4. chowdan
    Replies:
    9
    Views:
    1,830
  5. SecondChance248
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    1,711
  6. Aktroller
    Replies:
    2
    Views:
    1,169
  7. headsmess
    Replies:
    5
    Views:
    1,399
  8. brokensheer
    Replies:
    7
    Views:
    10,989
  9. missinginaction
    Replies:
    12
    Views:
    3,011
  10. Ismotorsport
    Replies:
    27
    Views:
    3,672
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.