Electric Motor Remote Control configuration

[rwatson]

I am not sure I have bought the right thing.
I purchased this remote electric motor control
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...509ba2d0a414bba1e3f215fde02f0&ck=in_edm_other



In this photo, it shows the Electronic Speed Controller with the Electric motor.

I intended to set the Wireless Controller up to remotely control the speed of the electric motor, but when I come to designing a connection, I am not sure it can be done.

My first thoughts are to connect the battery to the "Input 24V" terminals, of the remote controller
and then connect the leads for the DC24V Motor to the Power Input of the Electronic Speed Controller

Any observations very welcome.

 

[gonzo]

That sounds about right.

 

[Heimfried]

Your link to aliexpress didn't work for me, so I looked up a similar set on aliexpress.
I doubt the intended combination of motor controller and wireless control unit will work properly. The motor controller is in demand of an input voltage of (nominal) 24 Volt and in supplying the motor it reduces this voltage corresponding to the setting of the throttle. The throttle is probably only a potentiometer.
The wireless remote control will also reduce the motor voltage corresponding to the wireless throttle setting - but how will the ordinary motor controller react to an input voltage of say 10 Volt?
Its electronic layout is not supposed to work with low voltage input, I would guess. Additionally its expected input is uniform DC battery power, not the electronically HF interrupted DC voltage I think the wireless output will be. Will it digest this?

To be clear: I'm a lay men, this is a wild guess only.

 

[gonzo]

My understanding was that the wireless controller is a dual option. It can be used with the wired connection or remotely.

 

[rwatson]

Your link to aliexpress didn't work for me, so I looked up a similar set on aliexpress.
I doubt the intended combination of motor controller and wireless control unit will work properly. The motor controller is in demand of an input voltage of (nominal) 24 Volt and in supplying the motor it reduces this voltage corresponding to the setting of the throttle. The throttle is probably only a potentiometer.
The wireless remote control will also reduce the motor voltage corresponding to the wireless throttle setting - but how will the ordinary motor controller react to an input voltage of say 10 Volt?
Its electronic layout is not supposed to work with low voltage input, I would guess. Additionally its expected input is uniform DC battery power, not the electronically HF interrupted DC voltage I think the wireless output will be. Will it digest this?

To be clear: I'm a lay men, this is a wild guess only.

Thanks Heimfried.

I have had a couple of other experienced people tell me that its likely to be problematic, as well.
Those little ESC boxes are very sophisticated, I understand.

Sorry the link didn't work, I will post an image of the motor here


As it turns out, I have also ordered another controller, non remote, with a few additional desirable features.



I am hoping I can just connect the electric motor directly to it.

Would you consider it workable ?

Cheers

 

[rwatson]

My understanding was that the wireless controller is a dual option. It can be used with the wired connection or remotely.

I'm not sure what you are meaning.
The motor has to be wired to the controller directly, and the only way to adjust the controller is through the hand held remote.
It appears that I shouldn't connect it to the electric motors proprietary ESC, as reducing the voltage could damage the ESC.

 

[tkk]

There is no need for two speed controllers in series. If the wireless one can handle the current required you use that alone and dump the other one. The wired controller has a switch for fwd - stop - rev and a potentiometer for speed. I have had three of those on my electric outboard (fried two ) and they work pefectly but proper cooling MUST be quaranteed.

 

[rwatson]

There is no need for two speed controllers in series. If the wireless one can handle the current required you use that alone and dump the other one. The wired controller has a switch for fwd - stop - rev and a potentiometer for speed. I have had three of those on my electric outboard (fried two ) and they work pefectly but proper cooling MUST be quaranteed.

Terrific advice. That ties in with all the other information I have got. Thanks.