1948 Stephens Resto. Paint and Varnish?

I recently aquired a 38' 1948 stephens sedan, I am looking foward to restoring her this summer. I have been looking at the interlux paints and varnishes, what do you suggest for primer, paint, bottom paint and varnish. I would like to do this once and do it right so I am doing my homework before I start.
Thanks, Taylor

 

48Sedan, the Stephens name has been holding it's value well over the years, they're nice yachts. If this is a new thing to you (wooden boats) then you're in for a surprise in the maintenance requirements of a yacht of this era, scale and pedigree. You'll be painting, varnishing and up keeping for the remainder of it's life. This is true of all boats, regardless of the choice in hull materials used. I mention this because you said you want to do it once and get it right. I'm all for getting it done correctly, but once suggests you'll not own this boat for long.

There are a number of choices to pick from when it comes to paint/varnish (they're basically the same thing) and it boils down to comfort level (experience and cost) There are several types of topside paint (above the waterline) two part polyurethane, single part polyurethane, alkyd enamel, and water born acrylic plus a few oddly named products like one part epoxy (which is a single part polyurethane) or epoxy acrylic (which is just water based acrylic) These types are roughly listed by price scale and difficulty in application. The water base products are typically the lowest cost and least durable, the two part poly's the most costly and very durable, but difficult to apply.

Bottom paint is similar in regard to the choices, but it boils down to how they work. There are ablative paints and the same with copolymer. These types of bottom paints are used on boats that will see a good bit of use and not have their bottoms scrubbed. The ablative with copolymer added is good in areas that are prone to heavy fouling. Then there are modified epoxies, vinyl, sloughing, slippery and thin film paints and maybe a few new ones I'm not up on. Each deals with fouling uniquely and has good and bad things about them. You'll probably want a modified epoxy if you moor/dock you yacht.

The biggest tip I can provide you is prep your butt off. All paint jobs (including varnish) is 90% prep and 10% laboring over the actual brush/roller/sprayer effort. The more time put into well done prep, the better and longer lived your finish will be. The difference in a show winning finish and the average backyard paint job is the amount of correctly done prep.

There are so many brands and type of product available that recommendations usually fall down to what folks have had good results with or is locally available. Many of these selections may not be a result of the same requirements that you may desire and will show clear bias. There are several book available that may help, but experience is the real key. For what it's worth, the cost is generally reflective of the quality in a paint. You'll still have to touch up your varnish every year, but the good stuff will look wet longer and not discolor as quickly as the cheap stuff.

 

Perhaps you would do well by subscribing to

http://www.practical-sailor.com/

They have tests (usually side by side) of paints varnish and bottom paint , along with much other gear .NO Advertising , so there honest!

Toplac would be their first choice on topsides .

FAST FRED

 

PAR,

I have been around wood boats most of my life and really like how each of these old boats is unique. I am aware of the labor required and am more than happy to do it on a boat of my own for a chance. I am just looking to find the best materials so I get the most durable finish, all that is avalible locally is Interlux and I have no experence w/ anything else so want some other opnions and advise from people w/ lots of experence.

Thanks

 

Didn't mean to offend, 48Sedan.

Pettit, Interlux, Z-Spar, Sterling, Epifanes, plus the other major brands, are all names that can be relied on for good quality products. You'll find boatyards like to spray Sterling two part linear polyurethanes, for the hardest, wettest looking paint available. Bottom paints need to be purchased by location, use and biocide content. I buy bottom paint with the highest toxicant level in the type of product the boat will require (freshwater, salt, sloughing, thin film, etc.) Topside paints all seem to last about the same amount of time before requiring some touch up. Side by side tests may prove a sample of brand A is slightly longer lived then brand B, but the difference isn't worth the effort.

As a result of client requests, I use several brands of topside paint, bottom paint and varnish, though typically they leave me to the prep unmolested. I use epoxy primers in top quality work and alkyd primers everywhere else. I don't like using Interlux topside paints, because here in Florida, the conditions require I screw around with it to much to get a reasonable flow, so I use Pettit more often.

On your boat, you should stick with the alkyd paints. This is what came on her and will provide a good finish. The fancy, hard stuff available now may not like all the movement the wood will do on your yacht. The softer oil based stuff will tolerate it better, though I'll bet the polyurethane folks will want to argue the point. Bottom paint is a crap shoot, now that they've done away with TBT. The jury will be out for a while as the new killing agents see some use. Primers are application specific with some sticking much better to certain materials then others. I use the ones that will, like chromate on aluminum for example. Generally there are above water primers, special primers and below water primers (that can be used anywhere)

I've seen paint for over several hundred dollars a gallon and heard of paint that was that much a quart, so it's a wide open field. If you go the Wal-Mart porch and deck enamel route, you be repainting sooner then if you used Interlux Topside, but surprisingly not that much (the marine paint will shine longer). The high dollar stuff, used on the nose of high speed aircraft and Americas Cub yachts will easily out last the usual suspects, but you'll feel quite sick when you scratch or chip it dropping a freshly slimed up anchor on it.

 

Thanks Par you have been very helpfull! Here is a pic of my boat, anchor comes up the side dont have to worry about droping it on the deck The only question I have left is should I buy my paint in 5 galon buckets or 1 galon buckets?
Thanks

 

Figuring out paint coverage has always pissed me off. The can says "1 gallon covers 300 sq. ft." and try as you might you get 225 or 250 and need more, then there's a slight difference in the colors, etc., etc., etc. So I always buy more then I need and use it on other stuff.

You may need a 5 gallon bucket or two, but you'll be using quarts and gallons mostly. Figure out the areas for each color and type of paint (height x width) add 20 to 30% just 'cause you're made of money and don't have anything better to spend it on. Mix all quarts and gallons of the same color together in a 5 gallon bucket. Trust me, different lots of the same color may not be the same. It's better to mix all that you have and not have to worry about it. If the can says 200 sq. ft. per gallon, figure on 150 per gallon and buy as you need. For bottom paint, the length x the beam will get you there. Prep, prep and prep. All any finish shows is the amount of prep.

And send more pictures, I haven't seen one of these in a very long time (the 60's). It's brought back some nice memories for me, thanks.

 

Par,
Here are some pic of the boat, http://www.boatdesign.net/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/8967 the ins8ide is in good shape the out side is a bit rough but I am working on that. I am going to paint it just like this one in the pic (not mine) If you have any suggestions I am happy to hear them.
Thanks

 

They are nice craft all right, but I'm not fond of white hulls, being a fan of more traditional colors, like greens, blues and earth tones. I also don't like the glare you can get off the coach roof when at the helm on a sunny day, so I usually paint them a cream, light tan or other softer color to cut down the glare and provide some contrast. I do usually have white cabin roofs, because the reflective nature of the color is a real plus here in Florida. Varnished cabin sides are quite traditional as is a transom. Put a properly drawn boot and cove stripe on her, it makes a world of difference in the look of a yacht. One more tip, never paint your boat like someone else's it's bad luck, no mater how good theirs looks.

 

I am planning on painting a green bottom w/ red boot stripe. PS how do you think the hull would look in a forest green insed of white?

 

Par,
On the inside of the boat do I also want to use the same marine paint or is that un-nessicary?