Does an Alloy Toe Rail Add to a Hull's Stiffness?

I would bond in fillers of either foam or wood on either side of the joint, and than glass over it as suggested. put enough thickness and it will stiffen the hull since you will create a structural beam in the corner.

I would also set the fastens flush with the deck as a precaution, after you fiberglass it, use a large washers on the back and lots of sealant.

 

The most important side of that joint (from a stiffness point of view) is the inside, so if access is limited and the best you can expect, is a partial bonding on the inside and a full length bonding on the outside, I wouldn't be too concerned about how much stiffness you add to this area of the hull, just focus on the "seal". I wouldn't bother with 3M-5200 in the joint, if you plan on a full length bond. I'd just use thickened epoxy in the joint, full length, then some fabric, making it essentially a homogenous hull/deck cap.

If rigging loads are causing concern, locally reinforce under these points, along the rail.

 

Fortunately, access underneath is very open. I really appreciate the simplicity of this boat when it comes to working on it having come from a cruising boat with so many creature comforts in the way.

What do you think about filling the void with 1' lengths of G10? Short lengths because long pieces flex. Overkill?

 

Another question.

From the picture you can see the typical modifications in these boats.

1) a glassed in (beam of destiny)

2) jock straps from the chain plates to an

3) alloy mast step

Does it seem that what's really missing here is a larger bulkhead?

 

as an engineer, I would consider putting a bulkhead under the mast step, with a reinforced header you can get rid of the center post, have a stronger installation, stiffen the hull where necessary, and get a privacy wall for the v-berth.

 

Sorry. I didn't explain. That is the mast. It's keel stepped. Well, stepped to an alloy plate that sits on the floor board that sits on a stringer...