Does a fast drying and easy to sand filler exist that adheres to epoxy?

Discussion in 'Materials' started by magentawave, Jan 20, 2014.

  1. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    There is no "correct quantity" of hardener. You either get the hardener/resin ratio correct or you've screwed the pooch. Epoxy isn't like polyester, where you can play with the ratio. Epoxy can be off a little and still set, but nothing like how far you can swing with polyester.

    When I say pre-mix fillers, I mean the filler materials themselves. These are dry minerals and assorted things, mixed in a gallon jug at the ratio I've found works best. I have light and heavy structural mixes, special application mixes and a few different types of fairing mixes. Which ever I elect to use, gets poured into the epoxy, just before I intend to use it. For example my structural glue for 'glass to 'glass bonds has a splash of silica and equal amount of talc, a bunch of 1/32" milled fibers and a little calcium carbonate.
     
  2. magentawave
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    magentawave Senior Member

    Yes I know that about epoxy but I misunderstood your previous answer and thought you invented some super-duper magical formula for pre-mixing large batches of thickened epoxy and adding hardener later to smaller batches. Bummer, but thanks for the clarification.


     
  3. magentawave
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    magentawave Senior Member

    I'm totally rebuilding a 1982 18' Toyota Sunrader motorhome with a 5 speed manual and 22R motor that I'm going to use to travel through Mexico, Central America and South America. The Sunrader is the one with a fiberglass body. I've been working on this sucker for almost a year! :!: Aaargh!

     
  4. pescaloco
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    pescaloco Senior Member

    Cool

    22r's last forever
     
  5. TeddyDiver
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    No pain, you just must have them..
     
  6. redreuben
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    redreuben redreuben

    Talc is HEAVY !

    5 parts Microballons 3 parts Qcell.
     
  7. TeddyDiver
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Same stuff with two names... Weak compound, only for fairing IMO.
     
  8. Westfield 11
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    Westfield 11 Senior Member

    I hear that micro balloons are not suited for use where they will be water soaked, but I dont understand why? The epoxy will not absorb or carry water, the balloons are just hollow spheres, not tubes. If you sand open a microsphere water will enter the cavity, but where does it go after that? How does water or vapor get past the very first layer of broken micro balloons, assuming that your paint system has failed or that you have left it unpainted for whatever reason? I can see how wood flour might take up water and swell damaging the bond, but I always thought that micro balloons were a ceramic or glass product.

    What am I missing here?
     
  9. redreuben
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    redreuben redreuben

    Well the op did ask for easy to sand ? And hasn't specified wether it is below waterline or not, nor if it is being taped over.

    Been awhile I may have may have names mixed up but micro's (purple) are the main filler, Qcell (white) is to prevent sag.
     
  10. TeddyDiver
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Qcell is (mostly, might have something else too, got no product sheet) micro balloons...
     
  11. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Q-cell is glass microspheres, or was, microballoons an organic product.
     
  12. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Q-cells are quartz micro spheres. The term Q-cells is now taking on multiple meanings as 'glass bubbles (E-glass, sodalime-borosilicate) are often marketed as Q-cells, though they are different.

    Glass bubbles generally are more uniform, smaller, have consistant wall thickness and diameter, making them a bit harder and stronger than Q-cells, which are primarily used as a volume extender. The terms bubble and micro sphere are now interchangeable, though technically are different.

    This brings up a difficult subject, which are the various types of spheres/balloons, what they're are made from and the physical differences. Generally there are two groups, plastic and glass. There are different manufacturing methods and physical properties with each. Plastic spheres tend to be more elastic and squish instead of fracture under load. Once you look into this subject, you'll be baffled by all the choices; alumino-silicate (cenospheres), ceramic, phenolic (carbon), polymer-metal (aluminum, copper/silver), solid glass and the list goes on. As do the things that can be done, such as expandable spheres (often used as a foaming agent) or glow in the dark bubbles, magnetic spheres, etc.
     
  13. redreuben
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    redreuben redreuben

    Micros are phenolic and are all spheres, they do little to prevent slumping.
    Qcells are irregular shapes including spheres and prevent slumping.
     
  14. TeddyDiver
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler


  15. Westfield 11
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    Westfield 11 Senior Member

    Can anyone tell me why spheres or balloons should not be used below the waterline? I know this is the accepted wisdom, just trying to learn why.
     
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