DIY electronic throttle and gearbox control

Discussion in 'OnBoard Electronics & Controls' started by CDK, Apr 3, 2008.

  1. afxer64
    Joined: Jun 2010
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    Location: Phila PA

    afxer64 New Member

    Lm385?

    Lookin at your circuit lm385 you spec'd has 5 connections but the datasheets I look at have only cathnode and anode. Am I missing something?
     
  2. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    The 5 and 8 should trade places, then it becomes an 8-pin dual opamp.

    Very annoying, I sometimes do that with numbers I'm very familiar with.
     
  3. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    The concept is interesting , our current boat has a DD 6-71 and a Twin Disc mechanical tranny.

    The shift lever sticks out of the deck in the pilot house , in the middle of the door way.

    A tennis ball on the top end is little help in walking into it.

    Would love to get some sort of "power shift" (full time Hyd aboard and plenty of electric.

    BUT shifting into gear requires a really hefty!!! push or pull to lock the over center clutches on the old TD.

    Have been planning to move the lever , and make it more intuitive (push fwd to go fwd) but would love a reliable alternative

    FF
     
  4. Pandoras box
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    Location: Pensacola, Fl.

    Pandoras box Junior Member

    Two methods come to mind, the first of the electric use in an electric wench (sorry about the spelling) with a chain drive sprocket in place of the cable. They seem to be a pull pull of the handle at the transmission with three limit switches. Here the system would use hydraulic, older tugboats used a hydraulic steering system. You use a normal force control just like the throttle and that would be connected to a pivot bar the center of the pivot could be hooked to the hydraulic valve one and would be hooked to the cable from the pilot house the other in the be hooked to the transmission shift lever. This is a basic follow, when you move the lever in a pilot house it would push or pull the lever and activate the valve until the handle of a transmission followed.
    Mike
     
  5. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    Electronic shift unit

    This is the same linear actuator I presented at the start of this thread, but with much simpler wiring. I designed it only because I wasn't satisfied with the many electronic parts for such a simple function and kept thinking about another approach.
    There is no circuit board, just two automotive relays, a few diodes and 3 electronic parts soldered directly on the mid position micro switch.

    The circuit is in use since February 2008 and has never failed.
    Between the stainless cylinder and the gearbox I use a short pieces of heavy duty Morse cable left over from the jet pump days. I estimate the pull/push capabilities to be well over 200 lbs, so it should be able to control much larger gearboxes than the ones I employ.
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Hi CDK.....bult the circut today using LM 393 comparitor chips and intend switching two change over relays ..as these short out the motor I should have regenerative braking which might help.....the 8 inch 150 lb units have come into stock today at fugeli ...did you say you have a contact who can sort it out via pay pal ????? I am in australia and the agent does not have the feedback ones and I need to know if to post to a friend in USA or direct ...hope to hear from you...
     
  7. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    There is a PM waiting for you.
     
  8. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    brilliant will post circuit etc when I have it right ...
     
  9. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Have the circuit working with the correct LM358 chip and driving two 10A change over relays relays (270 ohm) . Perfect null spot so not expecting it to oscillate particularly as the motor gets shorted out at positon so no over run..... Just waiting for the 150 lb linear actuator ..fugelli have stock and its in the post but wont be here to test till september when I get back form trip to UK ...This will be for the rudder steering on my new boat .....the one with the outboard midships !!!
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2010
  10. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Have attached circuit and Vero board construction below ...again its mainly CDK but the right chips..Lm358. Built from parts to hand and for a one off the Verobard is ok particularly when encapsulated in Ployester resin. The Linear actuator has a 10 K pot so I stuck with the same for the Wheel pot ( this one is for boat steering 8 in stroke /150 lb actuator) . The 11ks on the actuator side in the potential divider is to ensure that the actuator completes full travel ..the Wheel only has 10k in its divider. The feedback resistors , 470k , determine the amount of dead spot ie both relays off.. lowering the resistance increased the angle of the dead spot on the wheel pot .Relays have 270 ohm coils and 10A contacts . OOPs relay feeds should be on the 12v line not 5v....
     

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  11. BTPost
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: Excursion Inlet, Alaska

    BTPost Junior Member

    I am wondering why you choose to use relays, as your Motor Drive element, instead of an H Bridge of Power MosFets. Just wondering?
     
  12. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    had them in stock so why not ??
     
  13. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    just got the actuator from Fugelli ahead of time ...worked perfect straight away...can be nudged 1mm increments ..no over run ...thanks CDK ..now we need the boat ..
     
  14. MihaS
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    Location: Adriatic

    MihaS Junior Member

    Hi CDK

    I see that you are realy enginer.Im also marinising 3.0tdi audi engine with 230ps, out drive is mercruiser bravo three.
    So i wonder if you make some project for electronic gear shifting attach to mercruiser gimbal.For throtle i will use original Audi throtle pedal but i will use only elecronic part of it.
    Im new on this forum but i know something about boats,we are producing 26ft boat walk around boat. My location is Slovenia and Croatian coast.
     

  15. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    The device in post #50 can also be used for shifting a Bravo 3.
    Electrically it is very simple: 2 cheap automotive relays, 3 micro switches, 2 diodes and few electronic parts.
    I used a wiper motor and made all mechanical parts myself, but you could look in Ebay for a 12V linear motor that can be adapted for this purpose.
    The so-called linear motors for central door locking are not suitable.
     
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