Steve @ lewisboats, on one site, it states "rowing into the future with our backs first" or something like that. Your design is very much in line with what I'm working on but with a transom and a more plumb bow to maximize waterline length . Decks fore and aft will help seaworthyness. they will present a problem at times because on one of our races we are required to have the boat stern up on the beach and at the start, race bown the beach, push off the beach and get into the boat. This in early March with water temps just above freezing. Not a good time to have wet feet, or try to row with heavy rubber boots. The old designs are very good, but it seems like designing and rowing your own boat a bit of a sickness. Our two boats are self designed and people constantly ask us who designed them. It seems that many people are incapable of believing that you don't need to be a big name designer to come up with a good boat.
In response to an earlier part of this thread on my question about planing; I know that true and complete planing is probably not possible in a rowing boat, BUT we row against a stretched Gloucester Gull, and at speed, it is clearly trying to climb on a plane particulary on the power stroke. It is confusing to me how this boat rows so well. It has a flat, rockered bottom, hard chines and gives up a lot of waterline length to bow and transom rake. All of which seem to fly in the face of what "good design" suggests is absolutley necessary for an efficient hull. This is what makes design so interesting, there is theory and reality and sometimes they come together, and sometimes they don't. Just as a further issue of confusion: what happens when a 2' chop is working against the hull and at times all parts of it are in contact with the water. Just more grist for the mill to grind on. Jeff