Design features of tunnel-stern Seabright skiffs ...

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by kengrome, May 28, 2007.

  1. kengrome
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    Location: Gulf Coast USA

    kengrome Senior Member

    Sorry, I erased the previous content of this post (and deleted the other posts I made in this thread) because I made the mistake of including too much sideline info. When I'm ready to create a better post that helps people to focus on the topic at hand I will post it here, or I will create a new thread if necessary ... :)
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2007
  2. Mat-C
    Joined: May 2007
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    Location: Australia

    Mat-C Senior Member

    Leaving aside the chine up or down question, I'd suggest that building this boat, as pictured would be a waste of effort:eek:
    I mean no offense by that, but the whole point of the box keel is that it is, in effect, a rather slender displacement hull (albeit with som other stuff stuck on top!) By shortening and widening it to this extent, I think you'll negate any positive effects the hullform previously enjoyed. The additional weight that is imposed by the complexity of the shape will likely more than outweigh any possible efficiency gains.
     
  3. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    Maybe I should have posted pix of a more traditionally sized boat to avoid focusing on this little midget of a boat ... ?

    The most common method of answering questions is with a MODEL.

    A mis shaped cartoon will not give realistic information about a real boat.

    If you build a realistic model , you only need 2 -4k on a real boat to have the model speeds be realistic

    With a 10 ft pole to guide the model , and a tiny electric motor operating IN the model , you will be easily able to observe drag and trim.

    The motor would be powered with wires taped to the tow line and the voltage / amperage changed and monitored from the dink alongside.

    FF
     
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