deck coating

Discussion in 'Materials' started by skiffish, Jul 8, 2005.

  1. Cliff Ruckstuhl
    Joined: Mar 2004
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    Cliff Ruckstuhl Junior Member

    I went with Durabak

    After allot of thought and thinking of the cost and ease of use I went with the Durabak and just ordered it. My biggest concern with the Sanitred was if it ever needed to come off for some reason. Looking at the sample that I have I can see ther would be no way to ever get it off. I would be able to sand the Durabak. Since it had been used on a boat and was reviewed in GOB I decide I did not want to do any R & D on my own. I should be getting it in a week or so and will be ready to apply it when I get it. I will post my results when I have them.

    Cliff
     
  2. skiffish
    Joined: Jul 2005
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    skiffish Junior Member

    Cliff

    I went back on sanitred website. The price sheet has a remover on it. Did they tell you it can't be removed? Also it said that it was $70 per gallon. How much square footage are you covering? Bottom line is they both look good, but you brought up some very good points. Thanks.
     
  3. Cliff Ruckstuhl
    Joined: Mar 2004
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    Cliff Ruckstuhl Junior Member

    Deck Coating with Duraback

    I got my Durabak paint today and did one coat on the deck and 2 on the cabin top. I am very happy with the results and look forward to having it all done and pulling the J 29 out into the sun to get a look at how it really looks. It went on real easy and if I had a boat that had sections of non skid I think it would really set the deck off looking real nice. On the J 29 the whole deck is non skid so I did the whole deck with it. When I get in in the sun I will get some pictures. If some one wants to see who it looks so far drop me an email and I will send you a shot of it. cliffr@sbcglobal.net

    Using it was simple I needed to sand the deck with some 60 grit to knock done the exsisiting non skid but I did not sand it smooth and then wipe the deck done with some other (forget the name) stuff. I also had some repairs to do around the stanchions and did this with WS. It was pretty much a tape it off and paint it. You can buy it in gallon and quart containers. I bought 2 gallions and 2 quarts and I might have bought to much and can send it back but ther is a steep restock fee. Once you open it you need to use it, it has a 3 hour pot life so you had better be ready to use all you can so ther is not much waste.

    Any questions?

    Cliff
     
  4. drs3317
    Joined: Nov 2004
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    Location: western MD

    drs3317 New Member

  5. Trent
    Joined: Jun 2004
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    Location: Indiana

    Trent New Member

    Sani-Tred works every time. No it is not fun to remove it from a surface like plywood, but it can be removed from fiberglass, concrete, steel, etc... Their "Off The Wall Coating Remover" will definitely help to remove it if necessary.

    There are other strippers that will do it too, but they are toxic and will burn your skin. “Off The Wall Coating Remover” will not burn your skin or harm fiberglass. It does melt some types of plastics (like what your keyboard is made of) but not HDPE, nylon, Teflon, etc…

    A friend of mine used the Sani-Tred system on his sailboat after seeing what it did for around my swimming pool. I helped my dad re-deck his boat using the stuff also. Just about everything that needs sealed up and take serious abuse this stuff will do.
     
  6. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    For folks that need a fancier look than the roll on bumpy stuff, here's one way.

    Find some cotton bug netting , best is from Canada where the weave is coarse to keep out BIG bugs.

    Trace the area of the deck you wish to cover with no skid on the cotton after its ironed.

    Mask outside and roll on one coat of 2 part epoxy paint , lay on the netting smoothly and roll on a second thin coat of paint.

    The results will look like the interior bottom of a Boston Whaler , ez to clean & EZ on bare feet.

    EZ to refinish too, as your not sanding off sand.

    FAST FRED
     
  7. medonme
    Joined: Nov 2006
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    Location: 08880

    medonme New Member

    I think I know what coating you are looking for...

    It is called grizzly-grip. It has a very rubber-y feel to it and I'm about to use it on my boat! I'll let you know how I do. There website is...
    http://www.grizzlygrip.com/boats.asp
     
  8. skiffish
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    skiffish Junior Member

  9. seaway31
    Joined: Jun 2005
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    Location: va.

    seaway31 Junior Member

    Unable t do so now, went with awl-grip and usual non-skid added, thanks, j.
     
  10. medonme
    Joined: Nov 2006
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    Location: 08880

    medonme New Member

    Grizzly Grip worked out good...

    I put the Grizzly Grip down. Two THICK coats out of a kit for an 8' truck bed. It went down real easy and it feels pretty rubbery. I will definitely be using this stuff on future boats (assuming it still looks decent in 2 or 3 years). Here are some pictures...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If the links don't work just shoot me an email at medonme@yahoo.com
    -Don
     
  11. seaway31
    Joined: Jun 2005
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    seaway31 Junior Member

    Have a happy New Yr and good luck with the GG, time will tell..Jim
     
  12. sail1345
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Ocracoke, NC

    sail1345 New Member

    What about teak decks?

    Anybody ever used any of these type of products over a sound teak deck? If the deck was sanded smooth, prep was done right, think this stuff would work applied directly to the teak, seams and all?
     
  13. naturewaterboy
    Joined: Sep 2006
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    Location: key largo, florida, usa

    naturewaterboy Steel Drum Tuner

    I think the best nonskid surface I've ever been on is bare teak. I'm usually barefoot on a boat. I've been on some boats with nonskid that felt great when a little wet, but bring a fish to the deck or get a little sunscreen on them and they got slipperier than owl s--t. I've also felt some nonskid that would take your hide off if you ever did fall down.
     
  14. JoseSanchez
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    JoseSanchez Junior Member

    I am happy to have found this thread as I am about to "redo" the diamond non skid pattern on a sport fisher.

    I read all the above and called each company listed here. The sanitred seems to be quite expensive, followed next by ultra tuff. Durabek seemed middle of the road priced. GG seemed best priced.

    My problem with this task is that the deck has a molded diamond non skid pattern currently. I asked the companies about surface prep and each one (except grizzly grip) said I need to sand away the old diamond non skid pattern. Grizzly Grip said nope. Just roll it on and you are done. It will fill in the old pattern and go on thickly. I wonder if its just sales talk. I was planning to sand it down some, but getting it perfect is no small task.

    Sanitred went as far as to tell me that if there is any blemish/crack/imperfection in the surface, the sanitred will take this on. They recommended patching fairing with their product so the surface was perfect. At least 300.00 for a 10x11 area (not including surface prep material or shipping).

    Another concern is the yellowing factor. None of the companies said their product yellowed. I will be ordering white of whatever I order. But.. I wonder.

    I would like to hear from anyone whom used any of the products to see how long they lasted, see if they yellowed, and exactly how the surface was prepped, and what it was before adding this prooduct on. Also.. the end result look and feel. I dont want a "workboat" look after I am done. This is for a pleasure yacht and needs to look accordingly.

    I am leaning toward GG, due to the ease of application, surface prep, and cost.

    Any comments from anone would be appreciated.

    Jose
     

  15. Roly
    Joined: Jul 2005
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    Roly Senior Member

    Along the same lines-Do any of these rubber based products take up dirt and how easy are they to clean? Cheers.
     
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