Cutting up the Mold. Advice?

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by CatBuilder, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Sorry, Hoyt. My question may not be clear. :)

    I was wondering what I use to cove them in? I don't want to use epoxy, but I also don't want to contaminate the surface I need to do the secondary bonding to later.

    I need some kind of thing to cove them in, but then break them out without heat or anything too difficult.
  2. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    I'm going to start a new thread on this due to lack of people saying how to do temp bulkheads....
  3. JRD
    Joined: May 2010
    Posts: 232
    Likes: 20, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 192
    Location: New Zealand

    JRD Senior Member

    Hi Catbuilder

    Great following your build, very inspiring, now if only I could get my shed clear and there would be no more excuses ...

    I note you have mentioned your hoists being too short on a few occasions now. If you are lifting well within their capacity for what you need to do, can I suggest you take them to a local engineer / welder who may be able to extend their height capability.

    Maybe a few more inches is just not enough, and obviously you would need to get someone that knows what they are doing and is qualified for the welding required. But it looks as if you are in for a heap of work to overcome this otherwise, and will need to repeat it each time you need to move your molds or hulls around.

    I imagine you will need more height when you want to join the sections together and also rotate them to position for installing your deck beams, etc.

    At this point, a review of your remaining lifting jobs may justify this.

    I dont know how many times I have been part way through a job (various mechnical engineering tasks and construction) and tried to improvise around a real solution. Then finally get to the last step and be forced to buy/build the right piece of kit which would have made the job so much easier the whole way through.

    Just a thought anyway,

  4. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member


    Can't be done because the lifts will de rate down to less than the load weight. Best not to risk destroying a hull be lift failure, I'm thinking.
  5. JRD
    Joined: May 2010
    Posts: 232
    Likes: 20, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 192
    Location: New Zealand

    JRD Senior Member

    Quite right, you have obviously give this some consideration already. Anyway good luck with the build.


  6. glasser
    Joined: Mar 2011
    Posts: 30
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 24
    Location: westcost Canada

    glasser HELP U IF I CAN

    hi i have done this before and what i did was get my hands in some aluminum sheet and cut it to be about 4 inch tall facing off the side of the mold you secure it in a good state line going forum the top on the side down to the keel then you glass up off the mold on to the plate give lots glassing on this so your making a flange after the glassing has curd you grind it nice down to the plate Essex sticking off remove the plates now then using a good thin cutting tool cut in to the mold right next to the new flange when you have the line cut take some kids putty and smear it in the line shooed mask the mold and flange as to not get the putty on them then wax the new flange rely good 5 or 6 cotes of mold release wax now you repeat what you did to make the first flange glass off the mold on to the new waxed face of the flange when this is all done good and hard you then drill bolt holes in it drill some extras use some steel pins and slide in the holes so that stick out good on both side 2 or 3 inch shooed do and glass over them only on one side the flange so the other side is fee this is going help you slide the 2 parts back together and make it stay lined this making of flange can be done in short sections then for using it next time before you slide it to gather wax the flange rite in to the molds serf's
    1 person likes this.
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