cured FRP to cured FRP

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by brokensheer, May 18, 2013.

  1. brokensheer
    Joined: Jun 2009
    Posts: 201
    Likes: 3, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 14
    Location: So. Md

    brokensheer Senior Member

    I have used plexus= very expensive has anyone used duramix, or even 3-m 5200, think about bonding a grillage in a small power boat Ideas?
     
  2. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 2,467
    Likes: 123, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 693
    Location: australia

    groper Senior Member

    Methacrylate adhesive is what you need, check the other brands besides plexus or different suppliers that are less in the habit of ripping people off...

    If you grind the surface well, you could use epoxy thickened with cabosil to make a structural adhesive... teh caveat being the FRP needs to be fully cured (+2weeks in warm temps) so the styrene evaporation doesnt interefere with it.
     
  3. Herman
    Joined: Oct 2004
    Posts: 1,618
    Likes: 89, Points: 48, Legacy Rep: 1240
    Location: The Netherlands

    Herman Senior Member

    I have several examples where very high shock loaded parts are ripped when done in epoxy, but survive in MMA (Plexus).

    Epoxy however has higher shear strength.

    Sealants, like 3M 5200 have lower shear strength, but can also be quite good in shock loads or bonding very dissimilar (thermal expansion) materials.

    Choose what you need. Redoing a seam is much more expensive than doing it right the first time, with expensive material. (I redid a couple of deck to hull joints. Nasty job.)
     
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