Cove Stripe: What would you do?

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by MJT, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. MJT
    Joined: Jul 2012
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    MJT Junior Member

    My 1970 Cheoy Lee is in the latter stages of a 10-year restoration. I'm preparing to paint the topsides, and I have to deal with the molded-in cove stripe and decorative scrolls. One annoyance is that the stripe/scrolls were painted with a 1-part gold paint, so I can't simply sand and overcoat. A second issue is that there is some damage to the stripe that will have to be repaired. Here are some photos, in which some you can see I'm using "Citristrip" to remove the gold paint.

    sum19h20.JPG

    sum19h22.JPG sum19h21.JPG

    I'm going to paint with Perfection, and roll/brush and tip. The molded-in areas will tend to collect paint and cause drips. I'm tempted to fill all the molded-in stuff, fairing it down smooth, and simply painting the stripes/scrolls on after. I could preserve the shapes of the scrolls easily enough by photographing (from a suitable distance and angle) so that I could reproduce the patters using Illustrator, then have someone make templates or decals.
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    You can redo the cove by using a batten as a guide for a router and enlarging it slightly. The scroll can be also cleaned up with a router if you make a plywood pattern.
     
  3. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    My advice.

    Take a deep breath. The9 another three or four.

    The scroll work will require a bit of extra care and attention, but shouldn't be impossible to tip off cleanly. Use a second small tipping brush.

    Filling and then trying to re-establish the scroll detailing opens a whole barrel of snakes that no sane person wants to play with.

    How much experience do you have rolling and tipping?

    Gold leaf would look pretty flash.
     
  4. Deering
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Deering Senior Member

    Would (targeted) sandblasting be an option for removing the paint and prepping for repaint?
     
  5. Deering
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    Deering Senior Member

    You might stop by a local sign shop and get their thoughts. They may be able to replicate the lettering onto adhesive signage. Modern adhesive lettering can last decades in the marine environment. You could have it done in any color you choose.

    It might be a lot simpler and more effective to simply fill and fair the area than try to repaint it.
     
  6. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Sandblasting will create a very rough surface. Wood has soft and hard areas (rings) which will erode at different rates. Paint remover will work.
     
  7. MJT
    Joined: Jul 2012
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    MJT Junior Member

    Enlarging the cove is a good idea. One issue, however, is that I have a fat teak rubrail just inches above it, which would make the routing impossible without modifying my router base. The base of my detail router is too wide. A second issue might be that the routing will simply expose more voids that need to be filled.

    A plywood pattern would be difficult to make and also clamp up, but could be done.

    Thank you for the suggestions.


    I have some experience with rolling and tipping, and also brushing and tipping. Just today I brushed and tipped my decks. Thank you for talking me down!
     
  8. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    I'm glad you have some experience with tipping off. Many who try wonder why their first attempt didn't come out perfectly.

    I can't tell from my screen if the scroll is round or V bottomed. I would use a custom made scraper to remove what the stripper leaves behind. Don't tell my ex-wife- but- I turned more than one spoon into scrapers.

    Good luck
     
  9. MJT
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    MJT Junior Member

    Update for any interested. Pictures tell the story:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I preserved the shape of the scrolls with Adobe Illustrator, YouTube tutorials on the “pen tool”, and photographs of the scrolls.



    [​IMG]
     
  10. Ilan Voyager
    Joined: May 2004
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    Ilan Voyager Senior Member

    Gonzo, You can perfectly sandblast wood. I've done it with excellent results and very smooth surfaces. That depends of the wood and of the sand blasting medium.
    Paint remover is hazardous and destroys and the paint and the wood.
    https://www.ehow.com/how_7477072_sand-blast-wood.html
     
  11. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    I have never seen sandblasted wood without damage to the fibers. In fact it is used to make fake antique signs. Paint remover, of the right type, does not damage the wood. Water based removers are not hazardous.
     
  12. MJT
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    MJT Junior Member

    Painting question, if you don't mind. I've done the requisite priming with Interlux Epoxy Primekote, then three coats of Interlux Perfection (Flag Blue). I'm satisfied with the results almost everywhere, but there is a section on the port side (no pictures, sorry) that has some slight orange peeling. Is it OK to tape off a 5-foot length of the topsides, sand, then paint? Will I have to buff?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Don't know the repair requirements for Perfection, but the job looks so nice; thinkin you ought to call it beautiful.

    Are you getting decals made for the scrolls?
     

  14. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member


    You will most definitely have to buff.
    Since the orange peel will need to be sanded away before repainting to prevent it from telegraphing thru. Try wet sanding with 1500 grit on a longboard, then buffing.

    Partial repainting usually ends up with a ring around the repair.
     
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