Coronado15 Rebuild

No, that's not 5200. No idea what it is, but concrete is a good guess.

 

5200 is a rubbery type stuff. It looks like white silicone caulk, but it's infinitely tougher.

 

I recorded a short video for you. Check it out here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xhb2Kwg5Tg

Just some thoughts on how everything should tie together into one "super structure."

 

How is it going?

 

Hey Canracer,
I'm here, cool video, been busy on all things except boat. I hope to get some progress to post in the near future. In the meantime, my respirator came from amazon, tyvek suit should come this week. I want to re-cut my "cap" plate for the compression post (extra-credit) because I wasn't happy with it. I have yet to mix up and work with any of the epoxy yet, so I want to do some "test" runs before I go "live" on my superstructure assembly.

I'm also concerned about those stringers as they seem extremely fragile. I'm not sure it's wise to not deal with them, if I lift the boat from the stern. I'd guess there's at least an inch worth of flex front to back probably more. So if I want to deal with that, I think I'd have to cut access in the stern floor. Then I could perhaps "sister" new stringers in place but would certainly want to at least clamp them forward and aft to get proper adherence. probably even some in the middle. which begs the question, should the stringers be attached to the hull AND the deck/cockpit? For some reason I'm thinking they are not connected to the hull... I might have to review my images....

perhaps I need to add one of these:
http://www.boatdepot.com/p-5724/tempress-white-13-x-23-slam-hatch-covers

to the aft footwell, to allow access to repair the transom below decks and also those stringers.

 

I've been thinking about those stringers...and how maybe they were designed just to reinforce the cockpit. I might make another video.

 

I'd be curious to know if your boat has the same amount of flex forward to aft as mine does. Perhaps not as I believe you already re-enforced your stringers and attached them to the hull.

 

Heck no, I don't think my boat is flexing. Yours should flex because it's mostly disassembled.

 

A couple ideas about hull flex.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9thaUuGIyM

 

Notice the porous and brittle condition of the fiberglass on the forward edge of that foam hull stringer? This offers no strength, and it's only a place where water soaks in and saturates the core.

 

I brushed in lots of epoxy to fill the weave, and laid down a few layers of glass. If the foam stringer on your hull looks real toasty, some of it can be removed. If I had this project to do over, that's the route I'd take. The first 12 to 24 inches could have been removed easily, the fresh end could have been sealed with new glass, and then the hull would be ready to build back up without the old stringer being in the way. The strength in the rebuilt hull will be achieved by tying everything together like the chassis of a unibody car. The hull, deck, cb-trunk, c-post, and bulkheads all work together as a single piece.

Here is the forward radius of the foam stringer, the inside corner, and the inside radius is almost visible. As far back as I could reach, the porous original glass was saturated with epoxy and new glass was added. See how everything is getting built into one solid part? The foam stringer, the plywood stringer, the cockpit, the cb-trunk and the c-post were all combined into one solid part. (Say goodbye to flex.)

 

And because I thought it needed to be stronger, I added the frames. This was extremely time consuming, and I'd do it differently is given the chance. This is the new back bone of the boat; it's very strong and any new modifications can tie into this foundation.

 

Well, the real reason I started to post today was this. See that piece of wood that is used as a backing strip for the centerboard gasket screws? You should probably remove it if you can. Most of mine were completely dry rotted and the pieces that didn't break free by themselves many years ago, came free with a couple small hits with a hammer. I guarantee that wood is rotten and it's just in the way. What else? Oh, I messed up those C.B. bracket bolts by getting epoxy into the threads. The bolts would not unscrew and instead they sheared off. I had to drill and tap new bolt holes just forward of the old ones (lesson learned.) Those bolts are threaded into two very heavy bars of bronze. You could remove them and put the weight back into the hull with a solid fiberglass layup that reinforces the cockpit sole and the cb-trunk and the same time (keep the bronze as a souvenir.) Just an idea.

 

Another thought: If you think your hull is overly bendy, you might consider inspecting the hull to deck seam. The rub rail is bedded into that seam so is the rail is lose then the seam might be cracked.

 

so I think I must be slightly nervous about the epoxy process, I need to coat all of my CP pieces and start to glue that all up, but for some reason I'm stalling. I of course have many excuses and many time demands.. but I still think nerves are at the root. Weather was lovely yesterday and today looks like more of the same.. I need to step it up if I hope to sail this year. I think if I just start with a small batch to get over the newness.. of it, then we'll be off to the races.

and now looking at that picture again, I want to know why there is so much room between the stringer on the right and the hull, when the left looks realively tight...I know the plywood is pretty brittle and we have several pieces that broke off that were laying loose... It might be time to flip her over and put her on the sawhorses, if for no other reason but to make certain she isn't twisted when I "glue her up"..