Coronado15 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by 5monkeys, Dec 31, 2015.

  1. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    The splash boards..or cowling or what-ever they are called. Well they're cracked and split and broken and ugly. I tried to epoxy them back together but the wood just comes apart again. At the end of the day.. the screws won't hold it in place.. and it looks bad and I had so much trouble putting it back on.. that in the end, rainwater just leaked inside like a sieve. So I've pulled it all off and I'll be making a new one. we'll see how that goes. Hopefully, it'll be good enough that I can get a good seal around all the mounting hardware. I really want this to be a dry boat from all angles.
     
  2. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Hard to believe epoxy won't hold that lumber together. I pulled the boards off, and there was some breaking in the process. But I saved every piece and it epoxied back together nicely. I sail without it.
     
  3. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    Those boards were split from the tips following the grain towards the v and they had been for a long time, I did get it pulled back together and filled the cracks with thickened epoxy, but I didn't wrap it with cloth or anything, maybe that would have helped. However I wouldn't be surprised if my boat has changed shape slightly, so tightening them down snug to the boat put a lot of pressure on the lower half of the split.. I think the top half didn't want to take that shape.. so it just split again and or the screws just pull through the wood rather than draw the boards close. I still have them and can try to fix them, but will make new as well and see what looks better.
     
  4. Canracer
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    Location: Florida

    Canracer Senior Member

    still10.jpg

    Just epoxy them back together, sand and varnish. They look awesome hanging on the wall like a decoration.
     
  5. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Location: Florida

    Canracer Senior Member

    splashgaurd.jpg
    People will think you're in the Illuminati.
     
  6. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    LOL, but I don't want them to know about that.
     
  7. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    I finally put the new splashboards on, I decided not to make a new mast partner, and I think the separation helps to blend the hatch cover and the splashboards. Which aren’t a perfect color match. It’s far from perfect but good from 15 feet. Don’t zoom in. ;-)[​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    The hatch cover and the splash boards match nicely. Some how the partner looks like an espresso color.

    Look at that cockpit...I think that something's missing from the traveler car set up. Two small blocks that direct the control line to the side of the cockpit, and then right up to those cam cleats.

    See the end of the starboard splash board? A jib sheet could get stuck under the end of the board (oh man.) If the wind was strong enough, that could result in instant pandemonium.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2019
  9. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    Hey, I told you not to zoom in ;-)..HAHA, I'll try and tighten up that starboard side. I'll also clean up the cockpit to get a better picture of that. Do you have a picture of what you are describing with the blocks?
     
  10. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    My traveler hardware is packed in a zip-lock bags and stashed away in a boxes. I think I saw it the other day. Ok, the box was above the refrigerator. I guess it's time to unpack this stuff and put the boat back together.

    The traveler bar (that heavy steel tube) is kept in place by two of these plastic collars (shown.) The collars and bar are bolted together with bronze bolts (shown.) The bolts have an eye (positioned at the underside of the bar when rigged,) and the shackle connects to the eye. The block connects to the shackle. This allows the control line to run parallel to the bar and then straight up to the cam cleat.
    [​IMG]
     

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  11. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    One of the original bronze bolts broke and it was easy enough to replace it with a regular stainless steel bolt and some washers.
    [​IMG]

    Last year I disassembled the boat and got almost everything into two boxes. The contents were listed. Here's the listed item you asked about, Car/Line/Hardware. Found it right away.
    [​IMG]
     

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  12. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Oh man,,,I just realized that I could be completely wrong about the control line set up. It's been awhile...
     
  13. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    I dug up an image of my set-up. The line is tied in the middle, led out to the block, back to the car and up at an angle to the cam cleat. Same set up as yours.
    [​IMG]
     

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  14. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    oh, so you are saying that where the traveler meets the bunk/sidewall there is an eye bolt.. to which a block should be attached and the control line fed through?
     

  15. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Location: Florida

    Canracer Senior Member

    Yeah, I can't be certain from the picture of your cockpit but it looks like you might be rigging up your traveler lines differently. Do you have two control lines?

    Mine is one continuous line and it uses those small blocks at the ends of the bar.
     
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