Coronado15 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by 5monkeys, Dec 31, 2015.

  1. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    A slight break in the weather is so welcome, I've just had no motivation to battle the cold with space heaters. In reality.. they can't keep up in my garage when it's 8 degrees outside anyhow. However, it's supposed to reach the 50's today and tomorrow. I'm hoping to do a little more re-enforcement to the inside/top of the transom, and then get her rolled over and back on the trailer. I'm sure that's asking too much. ;-).

    Mark, I don't know if I ever answered your question about dealing with taper, and honestly not sure I can but I'll try. There may be some repetition here.

    First I laminated two pieces of 1/2 marine grade douglas fir together and cut them out in the shape of the transom (based on a paper template).

    Then I Scarfed them into 6 pieces.. I had to thin the pieces where the cockpit interfered, basically at the top of the cockpit and in some places I may have cleared away more than I wanted.

    Then I drilled holes in the overlap to screw the joints together (this was really just to hold them in place while the epoxy cured).

    I purchased a huge butterfly anchor and bolt which I put through a 2x4 (which extended beyond the sides of the boat) and into the drain hole in the transom.. I tightened that bolt until the transom pulled flush to the tabs I had left from the old transom.

    This didn't do much to pull the port and starboard sides of the transom in, so I ended up drilling two smaller holes nearer to the edges and doing something similar. It's not quite flush out at those edges but I think once I clean up the squeeze out, I can use a notched spreader to apply a layer of thickened epoxy to the surface and then put the old "skin" back on flush. If I'm not overestimating my abilities ;-)

    as far as inside goes, Looking in through my 4" inspection ports.. I had some gaps at the top of the bunk/transom union. I mixed up some super thick epoxy and glopped it in there on each side to fill the void. I need to add more, and some tape.. That's my loose plan for tomorrow. is it as strong as new? I don't know. Is it stronger than the rotted wood that was in there. I certainly hope so. Is it strong enough? Again.. I hope so.
     
  2. upchurchmr
    Joined: Feb 2011
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    Good luck.
    Let us know how it goes.
     
  3. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    5monkeys, I'm looking forward to pictures.
     
  4. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    ok, I'm swallowing what little pride I have and posting some pictures. First off, here is how she looks from the outside at the moment. I think if I spread on some thickened epoxy with a notched spreader, I'll be able to reapply the skin until some squeeze out.. and it should come out as good as to be expected.
    [​IMG]


    Next for the insides, this is where I'm open to suggestions. As I've described.. the center third of the transom I set into a thick bed of epoxy, it worked well in the center because the cockpit was there to allow it to puddle and fill up. but the outer edges that didn't/couldn't happen. I then tried to back fill the gap with thickened epoxy, but it still wanted to run out, you can see where I actually left the spreader in place on the one side hoping to hold some epoxy back but the pics show I need to add a good deal more. I'll probably try to cut that spreader back out. I wish I had some of that concrete stuff used in original construction. :)

    [​IMG]
    starboard


    [​IMG]
    Port

    I'm open to suggestions at this point. What would you all do to fill this in and re-enforce the transom from the inside?

    regards,

    5monkeys
     

    Attached Files:

  5. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    I think I already know the answer... I need to mix my epoxy thicker... and then thicker still... I might also lower the stern a bit more to get gravity to help as much as it can, I might also try a pastry bag for the application. Anybody ever use dollar store pastry bags?
     
  6. Canracer
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Yeah, I was thinking that last night when I first saw your post and I'm thinking the same thing today. Mix it thicker (very easy to do.) It might have to be in smaller batches because it will get hot. You should have a good idea about batch size and the working time.

    I see how you divided it into six sections and scarfed together each part. That doesn't look easy. Was it easy?

    I wonder how the thickness of the skin compares to the difference between the hull's remaining transom (skin at the margins) and the wood surface of the repair. If you have enough room for a fair amount of thickened epoxy, then it might be stronger if you laid down some cloth. This would go a long way in tying together the pieces of the transom for better overall strength. If you need a little more space you could sand down the lumber (and grind a bit on the screw heads if necessary.)

    To get the best finished result now is the time to look for high spots and low spots. Test fit the skin and get an idea of how it fits. Also, the glass should probably be feathered into that original glass around the transom edges. I'm not 100% convinced that it's necessary because the lumber is so well bonded to the inside of the hull. But it might be the best way to get a perfect finish to the final surface (paint will look cool.)
     
  7. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    I'll probably add some wood flour to the silica/epoxy mix to add more body.

    Cutting the scarf was a bit tricky as my circular saw didn't want to go in a straight line.. so that made it less pretty. FWIW, I maxed out the tilt on my circular saw for the scarfs, I wanted as much available surface area as possible for the epoxy in the joint. I drilled and countersunk the stainless screws not so much for the structural integrity, but more to pull the gooey wet pieces in place while I put it all in and also to hold it together while the epoxy set up. I could try to remove them, but I likely will not. I guess for my purposes it wasn't too hard..but it doesn't look nice without the skin back on.. if I wanted a pretty wood transom.. this ain't it.

    I've done a bit of test fitting of the skin, even spent some time taking more wood from the back of it as it had some high spots.. I could maybe add some cloth to the outer 1/3's but in the center It's pretty flush. I don't think the screw heads are a problem but I'll check all that again before I start spreading epoxy. My first priority is making sure it's well bonded and supported on the inside.

    What paint did you use on your boat? Did you use a primer? The whole marine paint thing seems very complicated, but I'd love to get a nice shine on the whole boat and perhaps paint over the orange and go with something softer. Maybe when I'm ready I'll call Jamestown Direct and ask them specifically what I need....was looking at Pettit EasyPoxy Topside Paint today.. replacing the orange with blue ice and the white with blue-glow white. but that might not be the right product..for what I'm doing, again.. it seems complicated and I'm not there yet.
     
  8. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    If you get a chance could you post a couple pictures of those inspection ports?
     
  9. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    Good Morning Canracer,
    I haven't actually installed the ports yet, I've only drilled the holes.. but I'll try and snap and post a pic later today.
     
  10. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    Canracer,

    As you have requested, sorry it is a little blurry but I think you'll get the point. I had originally ordered the 6" screw down deckplate but the flange wouldn't fit before the bunk started to curve around at the top. They didn't have a 5" so I ordered the 4". It's a little tight to work but will get the job done.[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  11. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    I took a few minutes Friday night and mixed up a batch of PB.. nice and thick with silica and sawdust. It worked great to fill in those joints. It seems to have hardened nicely, but it sure is ugly, which is fine. I don't think I need her upside down anymore. and I think she's structurally sound enough to flip. I want to do a bit more re-enforcement inside, but I think it's time to put her back on her trailer. I need to be able to move her around.. winter car troubles mean it's time to share the garage. My pictures didn't come out very good, so I'll have to try again. Just beware, it's ugly in there.
     
  12. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    I've said it a few times in my own project posts; "space is very limited and perfect looking epoxy work is not possible."
     
  13. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Often I looked at pictures of my work and thought "no way I can post this mess." But those are probably normal results when working blind, at arms length, twisted like a pretzel and standing on your head.
     
  14. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    5monkeys Senior Member

    I'm mostly embarrassed that I left that yellow spreader in there.. I could have realized trying to leave it in place as a dam.. was a fools errand, and once determined it hadn't worked.. I should have made the effort to cut it out. I didn't though.

    Next up... I didn't get the boat flipped and on it's trailer yet.. but I did get a lot of the area under and around it cleaned up in preparation for said maneuver..

    I also took this time to do two things... 1st I sanded out my access port holes approx. 1/8" all the way around.. so that the ports would fit... and they do.

    Next up 3M4500 and screws...

    Might do that tonight.

    2nd... there was a gap between the transom and the rear cockpit wall. In my case it was bigger on the starboard side (about 1/4") than to port (I dunno 1/8"). I think there are a few reasons for the variance but I'm not going into that now. I wanted to fill in the gap where the cockpit drain fits in, not the whole surface between the cockpit wall and the transom as that would be too much so just around the tube as much as I could maybe a 1/4" to 3/4" diameter around the hole. I mainly wanted this so that if water got in behind my brass fittings it wouldn't run into the bilge, but also to provide some structure as I press those brass fittings in place... I cut some 1/4" foam that I had laying around from some insulation project.. and inserted it between the drain and the transom..I wanted this to serve as a dam or shelf to keep the "peanut butter" from falling away from the hole inside. I ended up mixing the epoxy/sawdust/silica combo so thick it was probably not necessary. Using my gloved hands, I packed into that gap as much goop as it seemed willing to take and to complete the "tunnel" as much as I could. I did the same on the port side as well, although as stated that gap was smaller..so I didn't bother to create a "shelf".

    I'm sure I'll have to re-drill these "tunnels" before I can insert and crimp the brass sleeve but I think this will be good and solid. I'll attach some pic's but be warned.. apparently I can't take a clear picture ;-)
     

  15. 5monkeys
    Joined: Oct 2015
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    Location: Herndon,VA

    5monkeys Senior Member

    [​IMG] [​IMG] cockpit drain backlit.jpg cockpit drain.jpg


    ok, so you can't see much in the pics of the cockpit drain.. sorry.. I tried.
     

    Attached Files:

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