Coronado15 Rebuild

ok, I have roughed out two 1/2" MG ply (doug fir) for the transom and they have now been laminated together. My plan from here is to make 3 scarf cuts. 2 vertical cuts either side of center about 3". then the resulting center piece cut in half horizontally. when pieced together the cuts should look like H. I'm doing that because I left a 1" lip all the way around the transom, so I can't just shove the new wood in there. I have to fit in behind that lip. This way I can custom fit the side pieces and then put in the bottom center piece and then lay in the top center to be flush. I intened to use thickened epoxy for those scarf joints. the question I have is more about the outer perimeter. Should I use tons of thickened epoxy to adhere this new transom to the hull, or would I be better off using something like 5200 around that outer edge? Either way, I intend to cut access ports from the cockpit, so I can epoxy/tape the forward edge of the transom in place. Even with the inspection ports. some of that access is going to be limited. Particularly under the floor. What are your thoughts?

 

Before you button up the transom, you might consider supporting the new cockpit floor. If someone stands in that part of the cockpit, I don't think the bond between the old plywood core and the epoxy will hold for very long. The old plywood will eventually fail (again.) Can you get a cockpit support structure into place down the middle? Or two supports offset from the middle.

 

I'll try to fashion up some support for it.

 

I'd choose epoxy over 5200. I remember that you had originally intended to put a small outboard on this boat, so the strongest result is the best. The plan to fit into place the new transom lumber sounds pretty good.

I remember that other transom replacement project where the pieces were fit together horizontally. He had a lip to work around so somehow he installed the top board.

 

The gap between the cockpit and the hull transom skins has a taper.
Smaller at the top and thicker at the bottom.
Your going to have to do something to make that fit if you want the lumber to be bonded to both skins for strength.

 

you guys are on-point- I ordered more epoxy and silica, should come tomorrow.

Things are kind of moving along. I cut out a couple of 24" long pieces of ply to install vertically between hull and floor to provide some more support, nothing particularly fancy. Still need to glass them in. I might do that tonight.

With regards, to the transom, I took two pieces of 1/2 inch plywood and cut out the (rough) shape of the transom based on the template I took before I cut anything. I then used thickened epoxy laminate the two together. Realizing I have a 1" lip around the outside perimeter of the transom I can't just slide that in. So I devised a plan to put it in, in pieces. Last night I put my skill saw on full tilt and scarfed that transom (still rough shape around the outside) into 4 pieces:



I should have put a new blade on the saw..it didn't want to follow my line and it was actually pretty hard to cut through that 1" thick board. Also, I may need to cut those outside pieces horizontally as well to get them to fit in. I probably should have made the center section wider. However, This was enough to get me started. Upchurchmr is correct, the top is thinner than the bottom. so the 1" thick pieces don't fit under the skin where the cockpit is present. So out came the bench belt sander. I had to take off 1/4" to get the top center piece to fit in there but now it fits nice and snug. It's gonna take some doing, but I'm going to try to thin out the panels only as much as I need to where the cockpit is in the way but not so much that there is a space between the cockpit wall and the transom. I'd like that entire space to be solid.

I also had a new rear cross member made for the boat trailer (remember that was smashed) and a neighbor and I welded that on this past weekend. I cut some new bunks from pressure treated lumber and stapled the carpet onto them. I've got some por15 to put on the new metal/weld and some touch up in other places. Then I'll rattle can on some more paint before I bolt on the rear roller/bunks/lights and plate. Should be good as new with just a bit more sweat!

 

It just occurred to me that instead of re-fiberglassing the transom, it could be left as varnished wood. Wouldn't that be cool?

I'm not suggesting it, just saying that it's possible...

 

while I think that COULD look awesome, I'd go about the execution entirely different. In my case I think it would look more like Franken-boat.

 

I'm curious what the inside joint of original transom looks like. Is it clean, or is it a mess? Maybe you could post a couple pictures. Just inside of that 2" edge and the inside of the hull.

 

I cut up a boat recently. Probably don't have the picture you want, but the ply on the hull transom skin was neatly installed into the hull. No sloppy glue squeeze out, well fitted.
The other piece of ply on the deck "transom" end was also nicely installed (nothing covering the edges of the ply. The joint between the hull ply and deck ply was partially filled with 5200. It did not completely fill the gap which you can see in this picture. The joint between the hull and deck at the transom had the typical squeeze out of a joint you couldn't see when they closed up the boat. Sorry I don't have the exact picture you wanted.

 

Wow! You really did cut up a boat. Do you have more pictures of that project?

I wonder what that adhesive really is. For sure it's not 5200.

 

I do have pictures. Turns out I didn't get as many as I wished. There was pressure to have it gone quickly.

 

If there is something particular I have others and will provide. Or I can just keep providing them.

 

Holy smokes... Pressure to do what quickly?

 

To get rid of the boat and trailer.
I needed a mast. The boat/trailer was $100.
The boat had an estimated 400# of water in it.
Both tires had to be replaced to get it to roll.
It had been sitting outside for 10+ years.
The hull had visable serious cracks in the footwell, around the mast base, and the hull was indented from the cradles, even after draining the water.
It was shot.
I got a good rudder I needed, a centerboard I didn't, a good boom with some pullies, in addition to the mast.
Unfortunately, no sails, which I need.

There was nothing I was ever going to do with the hull. It would have been criminal to sucker someone into buying it. Like happened to me on the boat I have.

I got $100 for the trailer (priced too low, sold to first buyer).