new boatbuilder

Hi all first post here and I am sure you guys will be able to help me along my way,I have just started on my second build its a 1954 crackerbox that I hope to run a 4.3 v6 or 5.7 v8 mercruiser in. Here are two links one of my first build "sean-nós"meaning old style and named after my dad Sean who had died just as I started to build it,and the second one is were I am with the crackerbox,not to far Hope you like.

http://s753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/fergalbutler/
http://s753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/fergalbutler/crackerbox/
And this is a clip of my launch day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoP_2AERUQo

 

Welcome ,good projects ,keep posting your progress.

 

Looking good. Welcome to the forum. keep us posted.

 

crackerbox

Framework is all done now just have to do the fairing off and then start planking, starting to look like a boat now.

 

Have a hull now, just the first skin now I have to find some 1/4 by 4" by 16' mahogany to plank it out,I was thinking of vacuum bagging the planks on but will have to look into it a bit more,or else I will use staples.

http://s753.photobucket.com/albums/xx179/fergalbutler/crackerbox/

 

Nice, nice..........

Use plastic staples if you don´t bag, they are a big time saver. You can sand them flat and leave the rest in.


Regards
Richard

 

It is a nice looking boat.

 

Plastic Staples? Tell me more. I am building a plywood boat, 9oz glass and epoxy on the outside of the hull. Can these plastic staples be used to hold down the cloth during the epoxy/fiberglass work? Where do you get them?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

I have been looking them up and all I can find are raptor staples but I think you have to use their gun. I don't have a compressor and not sure if the hand one will go through the mahogany and ply.

http://www.raptornails.com/tshoot.php

 

No, the hand gun will probably not shoot them into harder wood.

The link is the right one!

Fred
I am not familiar with tackered glassfibers, we apply them freehand, see my Gallery.

Regards
Richard

 

When working single-handed I have used a staple gun to keep the cloth from sliding off until I can get some resin on it, but then I pry out the staple before glassing that part. In a professional boatyard you may not need the staples at all if you have sufficient hands assisting.

 

I started striping my donor boat and have the engine ready to lift out to get a face lift, I hope to use the rudder, cables,wiring, exhaust ect. The boat I am building was a direct drive but I would like to use the gearbox to,I will have to get a longer shaft and a different strut angle,is there a rule of how far from the back of the boat the prop should be.





I also picked up my planking, this should be fun.

 

Started planking the transom,had the first plank and the transom coated with resin and before it set I epoxy with west system 405 filler mixed with 423 graphite to give me the black lines, the chalking on the deck will be black too so I hope it will look ok. As you can see on the first plank I put on my stapler packed up so I had to screw it on, I filled the holes with resin mixed with sawdust so hope it will be ok. I could not get my hands on the plastic staples like apex1 said so I just used 14mm ones shot through a car seatbelt to make it easy to pull out.

 

I started striping the engine for it's rebuild and when I saw this my heart sank


And then when I saw this it hit the floor, "always winterise your engine"

 

The hull is now planked and the engine is rebuilt and sitting on a mockup of the hull so I can work out the angle to drill the prop shaft, in the plans this boat had a direct drive so the gearbox might be moving the center of gravity a bit. the prop is a 13x13 4 blade and in the ski boat the shaft was at an angle of 17 degrees witch seems a lot. If any of you guys have any tips for me that would be great.