Converting Standard hull into bowrider

Cshockman, this isn't that unusual a modification, I've done a few like this.

Before you start, make sure the sole is in good enough shape to support a couple of pedestal chairs.

The engine box cover needs some serious thought, as it gets damned hot under it. Duramat or other acoustic/thermal barrier is necessary. A thermal break between the box and seating and/or storage areas is also a good idea. What ever you do, make sure it's easy to get at the engine. This usually means the whole assembly needs to be light and easily removable. 1/4" plywood attached to 1x2 frames will make a light and strong box, seat, storage area. This can be covered with foam and fabric (vinyl) to make it look nice.

 

1/4" ply and 1x2's? Not questioning your knowledge just seems a little flimsy. I do want to keep the weight down, so I will start with that, what about the top part of the engine cover, I want to hinge this part so it opens to the rear, and I was thinking about putting hinges at base of the bench seat to make it tilt forward allowing maximum space to get to engine for maintenance. The top of te engine cover will also be foamed and covered. Should I build the top a little stronger to support more weight?

 

Also any pictures anybody has of this type of mock up (project) would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hinge it so she opens aft. If hinged to open forward, you'll have to work around and step over the box to get at whatever you're doing, which is a pain in the butt on the trailer and dangerous on the water.

1/4" plywood, some 1x2's and possible a 'glass sheath for wear and tear is strong enough to stand on, which is more then enough for your well fed friends to fall against too.

The framing supports the weight (1x2's) and the plywood ties everything together as a single unit, stiffening things up, especially if cover in 'glass. A big assembly can get unwieldy and heavy, so consider a separate box or lid for the engine for, just so you can change a filter or spark plug without having to flop open the whole back half of the boat. For major repairs, like a water pump or something, then you can unbolt the rest of the assembly to gain access.

Trust me on this, think light and strong, you'll be appreciative of this later. There shouldn't be a single 2x4 or hunk of 3/4" plywood, in the mix (I know what you were thinking, it's a magic power of mine). Use underlayment plywood, not CDX.

 

Hi Guys,

Yes I know this thread is ancient but I figured I owe all who participated some pictures of the final results.
This was completed many years ago and I have learnt so much since then. enjoy
Here we are.

 

Some More

 

Even More
And by the way - it turned into a bass boat.