Concave hull / Low RPM

Sorry, Woodboat. I guess I got you confused with the magazine.

 

I haven't been able to find much on Reinell. Just comparisons to other boats of similar size, weight, configuration and powere train. All comparisons I have found and comments on other forums plus calculations with all the variables added in show the boat should be from 48 to 52 top end mph and 4600 to 4800 rpm with a 19 or 21 pitch prop.

 

Two things: Again if the engine is designed to run @4800 rpm then fine, all the older V8s were designed and propped for 4000 RPM. More RPM just slowed the boats down. Secondly, If you get a Reinell to run 52 MPH with a single gas original equipment engine I will be surprised. This owner lists top speed as 30 Mph in a 24 Reinell with a single 240hp.
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...&units=Feet&checked_boats=1302175&slim=quick&

 

38 mph on a 21 (or so) foot boat with a 350 hp engine? Sounds a little slow. Is the bottom clean? That may help. Have a mechanic look at the engine and somehow, resurface that concave area.

 

The bottom is clean. I have only run in lakes and for 5 to 10 hours at a time. Sets on the traler the rest of the time. I'm starting to cross reference all the numbers I can find on the engine as when checking on the Q-Jet carb, I find that it comes from 1979. The distributer has points and condensor with no vacuum lines in sight.

I have an engine serial number from the sales papers, but can anyone tell me where to find the VIN on this engine? The Intake manifold has #14096244GM.

BigD

 

Finding the exact engine specs is certainly a good start. You can't determine anything until you know the designed WOT range. Sorry I don't remember where the casting # may be located.

 

I'm no engine expert, so I'm just wondering what this means: "The distributer has points and condensor with no vacuum lines in sight." Sorry, I just don't know, engine newbie as I am.

 

mack .... most distributers I've ever worked with have a vacuum advance line from the carburetor. I believe there are also mechanical weights in the distributer for timing advance.

I've checked all the numbers on the block I can find and it looks like I have a 1987 GM 5.7 liter with a 1979 Rochester Quadra Jet carburetor. The ID# on the front of the block is B1117PHD which all makes sense but the PHD suffix. On checking out all the chevy small block numbers, I can't find the suffix of PHD anywhere. It would tell me the original use and HP of this particular engine. Maybe being a marine engine it has a different suffix than automobiles and is not on these lists.

I'll try for more info on the boat hotrod lists if I can find one that doesn't send a password to your email. My email has been down for several days.

Don

 

Don, is the engine running smoothly? I would just think that more than anything, you are having an engine issue, either that or the hull is worse off than I imagine. Could you post some pictures of the hull?

 

Mack ... I had the boat out Friday and it seemed that I lost a cylinder at the top end. Otherwise it runs fine. I have checked everything out on the engine sitting on the trailer, but that doesn't tell the story of the engine under load at WOT. I'm going to do a complete tune up with new everything and see if I had a bad plug wire or crack in the distributer cap that may be shorting to ground when at heavy load. As I said, they all check good with no load. I can take a couple pix of the hull, but I think I will just concentrate on getting the engine the best it can be and call it good for now.

BigD

 

Go to the auto store and get 2 cans of, Sea Foam gasoline additive, put them in the fuel tank. It will clean out a lot of old sludge and varnish in the fuel system. Get 1 more can of the cleaner and put it in the engine oil, 1 or 2 weeks before a oil change. Put a SYNTHETIC oil in the engine. Less friction, cooler running.

 

Thanks cyclops, will do. I run synthetic in my 351 F150 and my 7.3 diesel F250. I think it's the best thing since Johnny Walker Black label. I pulled all the plugs to run a compression test and they all look like its running a little lean. Probably need some carb adjustment.

BigD

 

Boats do not use vacuum advance distributors. There isn't ever a part throttle time when vacuum is high so they would be worthless. I use Mallory unilites, they have an optical pickup. Synthetic is not usually recommended in marine applications. They do not inhibit rust as well if I remember correctly. So unless specifically instructed by the manufacturerer never use synthetic in a marine app. I googled mercruiser specs and came up with an entire list of marine engine block castings. If your looking for more WOT leaner generally makes more power. You can get some secondary rods for the Qjet from Jegs. I went MUCh leaner and picked up 250 rpm on my port engine.

 

Fix the engine and everything should work better.

 

If a boat engine has a defective or too cold of a thermostat, water condensation in the oil COULD occur. If you open the throttle to heat the engine up, the oil will boil off the water every time. Old slow pokes get sludge. Lead foots never do. Newer Toyotas are being killed by engines with a thermostat that is too cool in the light duty a car gets.