composite material lamination plan

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by JINLEE, May 27, 2014.

  1. JINLEE
    Joined: Nov 2011
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 0, Points: 1, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: KOREA

    JINLEE Junior Member

    I will start to build 22ft open fishing boat with GRP construction by hand hand lay up methods. I am using this old aged hull upside down to get a new mold then will do bit of modifications from inside of it.

    My biggest concern is that the existing hull weighs around 1,400lbs (hull and deck only) and I am trying to reduce down by somewhere around 1,000lbs.

    Anyone knows optimized composite lamination plan that are light, durable and costable ?

    Thanks.
     
  2. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 5,846
    Likes: 285, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1749
    Location: Tasmania,Australia

    rwatson Senior Member

    Are you sure you should be risking your life in a boat you build with so little knowledge ?

    For a start, lamination plans are by no means transferable between hulls of the same length, let alone whatever unique hull you are using.

    Factors like load carried, engine location, fuel tank size and placing have a dramatic effect on layup designs.

    Also, a solid glass layup is by no means always lighter than a wooden hull, depending on construction method and timber type.

    You seriously require professional design help if you value your material and time investment.
     
  3. TANSL
    Joined: Sep 2011
    Posts: 5,924
    Likes: 239, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 300
    Location: Spain

    TANSL Senior Member

    I agree with many things, not all, of which you say, rwatson.
    I do not think any participant, moderately sensible, of this forum is able to give a reliable answer if you do not provide any more information.
    Someone may tell you that his wife's cousin built a ship that weighed xxx pounds but if you want to optimize your hull, it is necessary for someone to do some calculations.
    I would start by giving the following information:
    • Longitudinal Profile (drawing)
    • Main transversal section (drawing)
    • Design category
    • Length of the Hull
    • Length of the fully loaded waterline at MLDC
    • Beam of the fully loaded waterline at MLDC
    • Draugth at MLDC
    • Maximum speed at MLDC
    • Loaded displacement mass of the craft
    • Deadrise angle at 0,4 LWL forward of its aft end
     
  4. WhiteDwarf
    Joined: Jun 2011
    Posts: 131
    Likes: 5, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 80
    Location: Sydney

    WhiteDwarf White Dwarf

    This needs to be treated as a significant project

    Jin Lee,

    Clearly this can be a big job. On the face of it, you plan to make a female mould from the existing hull, then build one, or more boats from the mould.

    You have provided no documentation on the hull, or images. Many hulls have "tumblehome" - the maximum beam at some stations is not at the deck level. If this applies, you need to plan how you will remove the mould from the hull, even before you wet the first bit of glass. TANSL and R Watson are absolutely correct. Will you produce one hull or many? This will influence the design and materials you should use on the mould.

    Without considerable experience or support, this could be a costly failure, and it could involve the sacrifice of the original, traditional hull, which would be lost to future projects. Is the hull/design of particular significance? Please understand that I am ignorant about your country's tradition of small craft.

    Please post more details, it will improve the advice that participants in the forum who are far more knowledgeable than me, can give you.
     
  5. valter.f
    Joined: Jun 2013
    Posts: 84
    Likes: 2, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 32
    Location: brazil

    valter.f Junior Member

    Hi friends,

    I could be wrong, but I see this as the first guy who ate an oyster. It looks terrible, but after one eats, one sees that it is very good, easy ....
    I have a piece of foam 15mm H80 PET in my hands. It's almost as hard as wood. If I build with it a dory boat, for example, is just easier to cut your patterns.
    Paste using bulkhead as standard, even easier. The rest of the story is polyester resin over 2 or 3 layers of fiber each side and is it. Stringers, internal reinforcement,
    keel is the easiest and most fun part of the project, in addition to strengthening marine plywood transom ... Excuse me if I'm wrong, but what the difficulty with it? ...
    The weight of the engine that I have a plethora of designs to choose?... Go ahead Jinlee!... ;)

    Valter.f
     
  6. AndySGray
    Joined: Jun 2014
    Posts: 296
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    Location: Cayman

    AndySGray Senior Member

    Jinlee

    Have a look at the thread regarding Garrybull's tunnel hull project

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/projects-proposals/new-project-48278.html


    It is very visual - and might give you an idea of how much work is involved if things are done properly. He started off with a hull, which was used to build a complete set of moulds, and is just about completing the first production hull

    Get a clean sheet of paper and write down lots of questions
     
  7. rxcomposite
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: Philippines

    rxcomposite Senior Member

    I don't like oysters. It is too crunchy and my gums bleed.:):D
     

  8. valter.f
    Joined: Jun 2013
    Posts: 84
    Likes: 2, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 32
    Location: brazil

    valter.f Junior Member

    Very nice!... :D:D:D
     
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