Completely clueless

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Qbonez, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    I would recommend epoxy and 1708 for a newb.

    Assess transom.

    Remove cap if transom needs repair.

    Remove old stringers.

    Replace transom.

    Replace stringers.

    Glue/bed in with cabosil and epoxy.(this violates hard spot rule, but I don't think it'll matter here).

    Create fillet or cove at stringer hull interfaces with peanut butter mix of cabosil and epoxy (2.5-3 to 1 by volume).

    After fillet sets up a bit; I think 3 layers of glass would be very strong.

    Lay first layer bout 6" past stringer edge, second 4", last 2". Adjust numbers as needed based on spacings.

    All a rough idea for you. Transom requires separate instructions.
     
  2. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Location: Montana

    Qbonez Junior Member

    Thanks. Now just need to measure total length of stringers and width of transom then do math to figure amount needed
     
  3. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    The transom is a bit different. If you remove the inside laminate and ?plywood core; you would probably go 4-5 layers of glass coming back over ply. I would still use 1708 or 17-18 oz biax.

    1708 has a light layer of chopped strand in it that keeps in from acting like a snake skin. Easier for noobs.

    Straight biax turns corners easier, but you are mostly making straight turns.
     
  4. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    There is a very good tutorial on bateau.com on transom replacement. I can link later.
     
  5. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    Isn't a straight corner a 90° turn? I thought that was a no no when dealing with glass
     
  6. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    All 90s are made by filleting using cabosil and epoxy.

    In Ascii think,

    I
    IC
    ICC_____

    Where the C is the fillet.

    Someone here might have a better picture.
     
  7. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

  8. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    So there's going to be a lot of epoxy. At least now I know what fillet means:)
     
  9. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Location: Montana

    Qbonez Junior Member

    Pulled out 3/5 of the stringers. There seem still solid. Attached are the areas that are rotted and seems like just cracked from age of wood. Hoping there might be a way to reuse wood or replace sections of concern
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Fallguy's advice is very good, as usual.
    I hate to intervene. But I recommend not removing all the stringers, as the boat may deform. I would remove enough at aft to allow easy transom repair. Then remove and replace one stringer at a time. Starting center and alternatind sides as I work outwards. This also preserves deck height information.

    Otherwise continue to fallow Fallguy.
     
  11. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    I'll admit I got a bit carried away. I left the middle one in. Thought it would make a decent reference point for height. Just trying to figure total amount of cloth I need to order.
     
  12. Qbonez
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    Only issue I have this far is all 3 stringers didnt touch the hull so that should be fun
     
  13. Qbonez
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    What is the difference between 1708 and 1700?
     
  14. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    1708 has CSM (chopped strand mat) attached to it for use with polyester and VE resin, 1700 is just the stitched fabric and is used with epoxy.
     

  15. Qbonez
    Joined: Jun 2018
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    Qbonez Junior Member

    Alright. I was hoping to save some money but probably not worth it.:p
     
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