Clinker plank replacement

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Andy, Jan 4, 2006.

  1. Andy
    Joined: Aug 2003
    Posts: 279
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Edinburgh

    Andy Senior Member

    Next on my list of repairs is to replace a couple of planks on my clinker dayboat. What is the best way to do this? How many fastenings do i need to remove to get the plank out, for example? I have used a plywood pattern when replacing a carvel plank before with good results, but am not sure if the same will work here...:confused:

    Andy
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'm not sure I completely understand your question. All the fasteners must be removed, around the full edge of the plank(s) removed. No other fasteners need be removed, though it does help to remove a few of the fasteners, in the rabbit, on the stem and transom, for the plank above the removed plank. This will aid in installing the new planks, because you can wedge open the gains a touch to slip in the shudder plank(s). Plywood patterns are great, but picking up the plank shape with one of the few methods of spiling is a better way. With a correctly spiled pattern, a dummy template isn't necessary to refine the fit. You can "present" the plank to the boat with very close fits on the first attempt, refining the fit on the actual plank as you see need.
     
  3. Andy
    Joined: Aug 2003
    Posts: 279
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Edinburgh

    Andy Senior Member

  4. Andy
    Joined: Aug 2003
    Posts: 279
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Edinburgh

    Andy Senior Member

  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I use two different methods for spiling. One is my own invention and is sort of like a flexible template I make up to fit the opening, where I can mark off the frames and tick out the dimensions of the plank. The other is the typical spiling board, where a piece of material (I use 1/8" and 1/4" plywood) is tacked above or below the area to scribe and points are transferred. My flexible template is used more often because it produces a very accurate picture of what I need, but one of the traditional methods (there are a few) will serve quite well. It takes practice to get comfortable with each method, but it's not as difficult as many have made it out to be. There are several good books on lap techniques. John Brooks' book "How to Build Glued-Lapstrake Wooden Boats" has a flexible template spiling method detailed in it and I highly recommend it.
     

  6. Andy
    Joined: Aug 2003
    Posts: 279
    Likes: 13, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 45
    Location: Edinburgh

    Andy Senior Member

    Thanks again PAR - I'll post some piccies when Im done!

    Andy
     
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