Chine log (First Boat)

The chine bevel does roll a bit on this design, but not excessively. You could just find the tightest angle and cut the log to this on the table saw, filling the gaps with epoxy as you go. Conversely, it's a fairly easy to use a straight edge and hand saw to "pick up" the bevels along the length of the chine and connect the saw kerfs with a plane or belt sander.

 

Rolling bevels are not hard to do if you have the right tool. Cutting these bevels with a certifiably sharp plane is almost fun.

A simple modification to the plane involves firmly attaching a rod or stick running parallel to the cutting iron and level with the sole of the plane.. The stick reaches out sideways to rest on the stringer, frame, or other element that is being faired to. That keeps the bevel in perfect agreement with the task at hand. This method assures that you will have a flat faying surface.

The fix for the plane is easy and it only involves drilling the side of the plane and fastening the extension stick or rod with a screw. I have done this in a rather fancy way by drilling and tapping the side of the plane and using half inch diameter aluminum rods that have tapped holes in the end. I made up several different lengths of rod for this purpose.

Scary sharpness of the plane is key to getting a good job without much sweat. You may need to sharpen the plane several times during the boat build. Do it, you'll be glad you did. There are some nifty little do-dads that hold the plane iron at the appropriate angle while you carefully and lovingly rub the irons cutting edge on the sharpening stone. Get one of those from your woodworkers supply shop. They're inexpensive. If you do not have a Japanese water stone or equivalent, then you can use wet or dry sandpaper for the sharpening job. Use 800 or 1000 grit to get the finish sharpness that makes the job easy and fun.

 

I use the tightest angle, as par said, except I like to use a skill saw with a fence, it's easier than running something as long as a chine thru a tablesaw. then I saw a 2" or so long piece and use it to notch all the frames with the bevel, I don't try to change with the flair.
My first boat, I built with flat chines, didn't take long to get annoyed with their water holding abilities, and it's easy to prevent during construction, not so much after it's built.

 

A well designed chine log will have a beveled top flat, to shed water. If yours does, then just knock the inside corner off enough so it will shed moisture.

 

So these are straight cuts into the chine logs so I'm pretty sure I'll need to bevel them as well as fill gaps with epoxy and plane frames to match logs but my plans tell me to butt joint the transom to the keelson but doesn't say anything about chine and sheer do I butt joint them as well or notch 2x4

by the way many thanks to everyone for their input it really helps alot

 

had to compress pics

 

Green Horn did you complete the Carolinian build? Any tips, advice or photos you could give a first time boat builder would be most appreciated. I am at present preparing to cut the frames for the chine log, Kindest regards. Joseph,