Chev 350 Inboard: problems after replacing a starter

Frosty, how may small block Chevy starters have you R&R'd, as some don't come with shims and need them, while others do have shims and you need a different combination or none at all for the new one. Interestingly enough, GM denies putting shims on their starters, but it's been done on the factory floor for several decades, in spite of management's insistence it isn't.

Mike, you'll need some shims of assorted thicknesses and it's a trial and error thing. Yes, automotive stores carry them. You usually get a few on a good replacement starter, not so much on a cheapy. One way around this is to remove the nose of the old starter and use it on the new one. Of course this means disassembling the old one, and essentially scavenging the nose. Frankly at that point you could just pull the new parts out of the reman unit and make the old one new again, but a nose swap is easier. It's not something I'd recommend for a novice, but a reasonably handy person can figure it out. If you can rebuild an alternator, you can disassemble a starter.

Both straight and diagonal bolt patterns shown below. About 4 bucks and most auto stores.





Again, this is a simple and common thing with small blocks, especially the straight bolt pattern version. In a pinch, I've used beer can metal to shim, when I didn't have any handy. Typically you'll need a 1/16" or so, but it's a trial and error method, so you don't know what you'll need until it works.

 

And if you're really unlucky ( like I once was), something dropped in the hole and locks the flywheel.
In my case it was a nut that fell in when I pulled the starter from a truck engine. Not related to the starter, just something that was trapped in a corner waiting for the opportunity. You would think there was ample space for a nut down there, but there wasn't. Had to separate the transmission from the engine to get the mangled piece out.

 

Got starter up and running only to find the fuel pump has died.

I have found a replacement pump and the guy says siuts all early model chevs with 7 PSI suitable for engines up to 450 hrs power.

The block I brought the boat from was a real petrol hesd and put a lot of work into the motor.

It has roller rockers and other stuff up graded on it.

Will the 7 PSI pump to 450 hrs power do the job for this engine ?

Thanks,
Mike.

 

The pump is just part of the equation. Yes, a 7 PSI pump will work on a carbureted 450 HP engine, but this may be too much PSI for some carburetors, so a fuel pressure regulator may be necessary. Typical, fairly small 4 barrel carb only need a 3-5 PSI. So, what size and model carb do you have?

Early small block Chevy pumps are manual. They mount on the lower left of the engine front side, when viewed from the crank pulley end. You can by stock replacement or aftermarket high preformance pumps for this application. These pumps are notorious for oil leaks and I almost always remove them and use a electric pump and regulator on high preformance applications. Of course the hole in the block needs a block off plate, but these are commonly available and very cheap.

 

The Carb is a rockchester quardrajet, will this pump be ok ?

 

Yep, though the quadrajet doesn't need 7 PSI and likes 4 - 5. What type of pump is it and the make?



This is what they look like. It's always a good idea to replace the push rod too during this R&R. Also pick up the adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Holley. It's cheap and you can dial in what you need. A quadrajet needle can be overwhelmed with 7 PSI, which can cause flooding and rough running.

Try the pump alone first and if she floods or other wise starts having issues, then you'll need the regulator.

 

Hi Guys,

Is there anything I need to know about replacing this fuel pump or is it straight forward.

Mike.

 

Congratulations!
Are you going to tell us what was wrong with the starter motor?

 

It is not straightforward. The rod falls by its own weight and needs to be held up for the arm in the pump to go under. There is spring tension that you have to pull against too. There are a couple of ways to hold the rod up. One is to fill the upper cavity with sticky grease. I made a tool with a length of metal band from a shipping crate. It holds the rod and once you have the pump arm in, you just slide it out.

 

Raymarine S1000 Wireless Autopilot System E12169

Hi Guys,

I am looking at a Autopilot and have a tight budget.

I have seen the Raymarine S1000 Wireless Autopilot System E12169

I am not sure if this will suit my boats steering system.

I am not rael sure on the steering system in the boat

What do I need to look into?

Thanks,
Mike.

 

Of course not hes having too much fun winding you up.

Auto pilot now --I cant wait to see whats next.

Im not sure whats going on

 

Yep the starter was a real nightmare for sure.

the 2 fixing boats were way down low in the hull and a real night mare to get at the long one, having to bent arms in ways they arnt meant too.

the rachet i first used had a large overall diameter and when i thought i had the bolt up tight it was actually the the rachet jaming up on stuff around the bolt.

i borrowed a mate rachet that was abit smaller and found the bolt had 2 full turns before it was tight, and she fired up no probs after that.

cheers,
mike.

 

I have not read all of this but ..

1/ is it an inertia or pre engaged starter ....bendix is a make not a design.
2/ Frosty please note the out of mesh clearance between pinion and ring gear is 3 mm or 1/8 in for both types.
3/ There are special gauges for measuring the out of mesh clearance
4/ Larger pre engaged types have an overload clutch which makes a noise if it slips or is out of adjustment .
5/ all pre engaged have a freewheel so is your new motor rotating in the correct direction .if not it will slip and again make a noise ...

 

you should look into putting a fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the carb if you are producing 7 psi. That much pressure could over ride the float, this will pump too much fuel into the carb causing it to run rich, run too long and you damage the rings.

 

Sound I regulate to about 5.5 psi ?

Thanks,
Mike.