Cheapest DIY Bugout Sailboat

Its an elegant solution as its built that way from the start, not a retro fit.
 
This may be the dumbest question ever; but, can I use an outrigger + ama (minimal) on a scow, for extra righting moment, then just reposition it to the upwind side, depending on my point of sail?
 
I'm with you on the MacGregors. Very high survivability boat!
I swear if I had a vehicle with a good tow hitch I'd probably be over there. Lord knows I've got lots of junk I could trade.
 
This may be the dumbest question ever; but, can I use an outrigger + ama (minimal) on a scow, for extra righting moment, then just reposition it to the upwind side, depending on my point of sail?
On a jangada a very scow like sail boat some times they place a sand bag on deck for extra righting moment on the windward side. Much easier than trying somehow reposition an ama. Outrigger canoes of the proa sort shunt to get the ama to windward.
 
On a jangada a very scow like sail boat some times they place a sand bag on deck for extra righting moment on the windward side. Much easier than trying somehow reposition an ama. Outrigger canoes of the proa sort shunt to get the ama to windward.

Twin amas then?

The windward one will always be just out of the water.

I'm trying to get extra stability, to ocean a boat that wasn't meant for it. Some scows like the OZ Goose are almost bullet-proof; but, they normally sail with a large degree of heel when moving fast.

Since, the OZ Goose can reach 13 kts and has side air boxes for added buoyancy, I'm looking more closely at it. The parts count also doesn't look as overwhelming as I thought it might be.
 
A small boat like the Goose is relying on your body weight for righting moment. For sure you could add amas each side, but i expect if you go that far, you may aswell pick up a junk Hobie / tornado cat.

Having some heel reduces the wetted surface of the box like Goose. If you are really paranoid about capsize, just tie a large fender at the masthead to avoid a total inversion, they are pretty easy to right though.

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You could make similar "outriggers" that usually stay out of the water when sailing normally, and only submerge closer to the edge. What you dont want is something that is going to submerge at high speed and then cause a broach/wipeout.
 
Ok.

I'm thinking, not much more than a stick on an outrigger for an ama.

I like the fender on mast idea.

What I'd really like to do is keep the ride as flat as possible while going moderately fast, say > 9, without having to constantly monitor the helm.

I suppose, I could also put a universal-joint on the mast and angle it slightly leeward as well; so, the boat doesn't have as far to heel. Some of the proas do this.
 
A loaded dinghy like a Goose is always going to be going under 9 knots unless going down wind under full sail till something breaks.

Canting masts have been used. Easier to just trim or reef the sail to suit conditions. Hands off steering in a boat this small is not normal except under perfect stable conditions, its too light to outside forces., not to say it could creep along at reduced speed with an elastic on the tiller, but do not expect self steering outside of an electric pilot, and then you would have to keep the mainsheet in your hand at all times anyway. Typical behaviour of an unballasted dinghy.
 
Let's suppose I had a relatively large expanse of blue-water to cross, say 500 ktm. And, let's say I could make 4 ktm/hour on average, making the total crossing a 5 day journey.

It would be impossible for me to stay awake and alert the entire time, much less vigilant enough to dump the sheet at the first sign of trouble.

How does one "rest" on such a journey, in an "unballasted" dinghy?

Would it be possible for me to sleep on such a journey. Would my sleep time have to be fully reefed, with sea-anchor deployed; or would it be possible to make headway, while asleep and not tending the helm?

If I had a choice between this route and one where I could make landfall, at least once every 24 hours, better yet, once every 8 to 12 hours (island hopping), would I be better-off, or "much" better-off choosing that route, and the alternate destination, that would be the natural result of selecting the alternate route?
 
Well, personally i would rather sail for 8-10 hours a day and get some good rest ashore every night.

I have met someone who sailed across the Bay of Biscay, 450m , in a 16ft Wayfarer dinghy. Spent 7 days wearing a wetsuit, capsized twice. Slept under a sea anchor unless wind in his favour, the a tied tiller and a scrap of sail just to maintain some progress.

A book by Frank Dye "Ocean crossing Wayfarer", if you want better details of doing serious milage in a dinghy, worth buying. In a gale, he would drop the entire rig and "sleep" under a cover........

It can certainly be done if your mentaly and physically prepped for it.
 
Ok.....going out on a different tangent to get you a cabin and righting ability with no ballast. How much will 8 sheets of 1/4in and 2 sheets of 1/2in cost you? It could at least be used as a "camp" when dragged up the beach at your destination and give you secure stowage for stuff. Its not meant for crossing open water, but then neither is a Goose. I would rather stay at least dry and uncomfortable, over wet and uncomfortable.

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IMB Plans PDF - Duckworks Boat Builders Supply
 
Let's suppose I had a relatively large expanse of blue-water to cross, say 500 ktm. And, let's say I could make 4 ktm/hour on average, making the total crossing a 5 day journey.
If you were to sail from Maine to England, for example. You might sail up the Newfound coast until you crossed the 500 nm distance to Greenland, then the 400 nm distance to Iceland, then down to the Auklands and Scotland in somewhere around 300 nm. In such a tiny boat, it would be worth investing in a windvane, if not an elective system and an auto pilot. You would want AIS, radar reflectors and an alarm to warn off other boat traffic. Everyone out there would be much bigger than you. Sleep is caught in intervals. wake every 15 to 20 minutes to scan the horizon.
 
Some scows like the OZ Goose are almost bullet-proof; but, they normally sail with a large degree of heel when moving fast.
This is because the Goose is typically over-canvassed for racing, and you'll see its two-man crew hiked out as far as they can stretch, and they probably get knocked down pretty regularly anyway. Look carefully at the plans and details; it's made with two mast steps, one for the immoderately sized racing sail and the other for a smaller 'training' sail. I believe that if a Goose was equipped with a more modest sail it could be safely single-handed without the need for outriggers; it just wouldn't go as fast.

Also, the more stuff you put on it, the more it will cost and the more likely it will fail (at the worst time, of course).
 
Ok.....going out on a different tangent to get you a cabin and righting ability with no ballast. How much will 8 sheets of 1/4in and 2 sheets of 1/2in cost you? It could at least be used as a "camp" when dragged up the beach at your destination and give you secure stowage for stuff. Its not meant for crossing open water, but then neither is a Goose. I would rather stay at least dry and uncomfortable, over wet and uncomfortable.

I've been looking at this one and the Jewel box, both very satisfactory vessels with much to recommended them.

Someone has also put a cabin on the OZ Goose. I think they call the result Goose Explorer. Personally, I don't like their arrangement and I think I could manage to do as well after stepping in and out of the boat a few times and taking some rough measurements.

I'm also not too proud to strap in a couple of small sandbags, or use the drinking water as ballast. After I reach PNR, I won't be as worried.

Also, maybe I can add a birdcage to the Goose. It would however be ugly as sin on a cookie sheet.
 
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