snipe rudder

I have a 1969 Lofland Snipe with a broken rudder. Do you have one for sale? Thank you. John D.

 

The Snipe rudder blade is about as simple a thing to make as it gets. How about giving it a try. The worst thing that can happen is it'll break and you'll be in the same situation again (rudderless). If it was me and I wasn't actively racing her, I'd make a kickup rudder instead of the stock, fixed blade.

 

Thank you for your friendly advice re: making a rudder. Well, I have already been this route, with NO success. As a matter of fact, I ruined it and had to throw it out. I resorted to buying this old Snipe rudder that I found on ebay. It may not be as good as a kick-up rudder, but at least it gets me on the water. (BIG SMILE). I do not think that I have the expertise to make a quality rudder for my Snipe. I'd be willing to purchase a kick-up rudder if I could find one. Thank you, John D.

 

Do you want a standard rudder or a kick up?

 

Par us correct. A Snipe rudder is not that hard to fashion...the kick-up part might be a bit tricky, if you do not already have the right head, but there are ways...the fun is working it out...and have it working.

And I found this on the WWW

If you do not want to make...http://www.dotan.com/collection/

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/propulsion/how-do-i-make-kick-up-rudder-my-snipe-22389.html

 

I have an older Snipe, and the rudder is not a trivial conversion to kick up, due to it's noteworthy angle to the stern. It's not the same as a rudder with a vertical stern and normal pintles and gudgeons.

From a quick look, the rudder headstock will have to be increased in size a fair bit to retain the same strength and ability to resist twist under load. The solid integrated headstock/rudder blade in the OEM part is narrower than a kick up part would be at the same strength. The actual rudder blade is vertical, with about a 30 degree (guesstimate) turn at the headstock to match the stern profile.

Since rudder size, shape and balance is more important in dinghies for normal sailing, you can't change things radically without the potential for creating handling issues. Besides, once you move too far off the class sanctioned and measured rules, it isn't a Snipe anymore. The rudder loading is off axis to the pintle/gudgeon pair already on the Snipe.

I'd build/buy a proper used Snipe rudder and be done with it. This way you won't screw up the resale value, the ability for future folks to race in class races and it will handle as it is supposed to. Some things are worth fooling around with, and some things aren't. The real trick is to know which ones are worth your time.

--
CutOnce

 

Yes, I noted that steep angle and forgot when in included the Dotol url.

I fully understand your plight, particularly with the transom on those classy boats.

A used rudder may be out there, but I would consider making a complete new blade, using current hardware. You can buy mahogany in appropriate thickness and epoxy together with glass between for strength and then glass overall...the kick-up part will be tricky...

I am doing something similar, but with vertical transom and it is still fussy. I ended up buying used Laser 2 rudder and head to get the head into which goes the blade for kick-up potential.


Still work in progress and using old barndoor in meantime...you might be able to do similar with Snipe...

If duplicating old rudder is all, seems to me to be not so difficult, but busy work: wood, sandwich, shape and fair, glass, sail.