cavitation plate depth

[valvebounce]

Probably the easiest way is a small slab of aluminium at least half an inch thick, (preferably a bit thicker) you bolt that to the outside of the existing transom, it would need to be say 18" x 9" or thereabouts. Naturally the height of the plate has to be set correctly to get the cav plate level you want, and you can't have bolt heads standing proud, that might foul the outboard's bracket. You could use large countersunk stainless screws to avoid any problem with that. Alloy is light, the plate won't be weighing things down much, and your engine size should not strain it too much. 3/4" would probably be ideal. A local metal fabrication shop might even have an offcut you can use. you will have to do some measurements to see what the minimum size you need is, but use 4 bolts to fit it to the transom.

View attachment 147018

That's exactly what I've done with two thicknesses of 3/4" grp.Mr E.
The problem is,I'm in between the short shaft and the longshaft height.
I may use your idea with the ally plate and make it higher.
The bolt holes can be used that are already there in the transom.
I used s steel bolts,spring washers and lock nuts,and spaced them far enough apart to miss the engine brackets.
I was considering adding a two inch packing under the brackets,and using the holes in the back of the engine brackets
to bolt the engine on.
Adding two inches would put my cavity plate about 1" below the bottom of the transom/hull.
With the boat being quite light in weight,maybe the extra inch of depth would help in rough water.

 

[Mr Efficiency]

Even a slab of thick ply would do it, at least 1.5 inches. ( 2 x 3/4 inch glued together with a waterproof wood glue). Easier to work with. You can taper the piece of ply to be wider where it joins the old transom. The height of the actual cav plate relative to the hull, level gives good results if there is no "keel" at the centreline, if there is, go a little lower.

 

[valvebounce]

Hi Mr E,the boat has no keel,it has a pointed bow that gradually fans out to an almost flat hull at the back.
I have some 3/4" GRP that is fibreglassed on both sides,That's what I used when I originally extended the transom.
Instead of glueing it,I used epoxy resin.