Carolina skiff- j16- new floor and need help with leveling/fairing

[fallguy]

Thoughts? (Go easy as this is the first time I've ever done this)
-epoxied in
-mixed cabisol (NASTY STUFF)
-mixed in chopped fibers
- then lightly filled that hole,

next is to let it kick,
Sand with 250 -

and then glass mat over it,

Sanding b4 glass is Always 40 grit for mechanical key

chopped fibers are not needed; just make it hard to smooth out

 

[CaptTator]

Sanding b4 glass is Always 40 grit for mechanical key

chopped fibers are not needed; just make it hard to smooth out

Gotcha! I hit it with 40 so I did good on that!

-as far as the chopped glass- I thought it was necessary to keep it from cracking (upping the strength essentially)

also.- thank you for all your help. I appreciate more than you know and often times I've seen my generation be too prideful to ask for help. Fortunately I'm not one of them and know when to admit I' don't know something!

 

[fallguy]

I only use chopped glass on edges where I want bulk and then never on final fairing passes. It isn’t really any good making a big glob of epoxy and cab and fibers because it’ll overheat and crack.

Do NOT breathe silica fibers.

Hey! Sorry I'm so late with the reply!

-those are pvc wire conduit for controls - but I decided to glass in decking over it- so the pvc only sticks up through the floor for wiring/motor controls!

How are you going to keep water from flowing into the tubes if they are flush to the floor? Maybe you have the answer, this is a test.

I noticed some voids here n there ~ those need foam as well, not epoxy. I mean along the edges of the plywood.

Another solution to deal with the problem of the transverse structure would have been to use 6# pour foam, for anyone else going down this road. It is considered structural and one could glass to it. Or, build up the transverse members with foam and glass or plywood, etc.

 

[CaptTator]

I only use chopped glass on edges where I want bulk and then never on final fairing passes. It isn’t really any good making a big glob of epoxy and cab and fibers because it’ll overheat and crack.

Do NOT breathe silica fibers.



How are you going to keep water from flowing into the tubes if they are flush to the floor? Maybe you have the answer, this is a test.

I noticed some voids here n there ~ those need foam as well, not epoxy. I mean along the edges of the plywood.

Another solution to deal with the problem of the transverse structure would have been to use 6# pour foam, for anyone else going down this road. It is considered structural and one could glass to it. Or, build up the transverse members with foam and glass or plywood, etc.

I have to laugh because I shaved my entire beard off so my respirator would fit properly! My wife was shocked.

As far as sealing those holes, I'm going to use a 4 inch piece of PVC to fit the hole, then put a cap over it kind of like a mushroom to run the wires out of the bottom of it. Then seal around the edge with 4200. (Also epoxy the inside of that hole so now water gets sucked into the ply.
As far as the voids on the edges- i got it to level nicely (still have to sand flush/and fillet)

when I stood in it after letting it dry for 12 hours (using slow hardener because I'm a rookie) , it was SOLID, with maybe a 1/4 in of flex!