Carolina skiff- j16- new floor and need help with leveling/fairing

[gonzo]

The normal process is to install the deck and then pour the foam. I fills the cavities and cures with higher density due to the compression. The easy way to fix it is to cut enough foam to leave at 1 1/2" gap below the deck. Then pour a batch of foam to fill the gap. The foam must be poured at the low spot and holes at the high end will let the air and surplus foam exit. There should be foam coming out of the holes or the gaps are not filled.

 

[BMcF]

The normal process is to install the deck and then pour the foam. I fills the cavities and cures with higher density due to the compression. The easy way to fix it is to cut enough foam to leave at 1 1/2" gap below the deck. Then pour a batch of foam to fill the gap. The foam must be poured at the low spot and holes at the high end will let the air and surplus foam exit. There should be foam coming out of the holes or the gaps are not filled.

But did you see his picture of the somewhat bizarre way that Carolina compartmentalized the foam between deck and bottom skin? Therein lies the problems with reconstruction..

 

[fallguy]

Yeah, big mistake on my part. But- the good news is I learned from it!

as far as plugging the 1in scupper holes-
Can I get a dowel (soaked in epoxy of course) then fill it with thickened epoxy till flush , then glass over it?

Instead of wood I actually have decided to change course to that 1/2in nidacell (I think that's how you spell it?, it's the honeycomb stuff) for weight reduction!

Not a huge fan of either approach. The thing about plastic cores is they are rather difficult to get leakproof in the application you are choosing. Same with the 1” plug. You want about 1/8” glue margin for the thickened resin.

And to make matters more complex, I see pvc tubes, no? Epoxy does not stick well to pvc. Rather poorly actually. The one thing that sticks well to pvc is black mamba fhg. The pvc needs to be taken out if you are going to use epoxy. Please trust me. I’ve tried many ways and they all failed.

 

[gonzo]

But did you see his picture of the somewhat bizarre way that Carolina compartmentalized the foam between deck and bottom skin? Therein lies the problems with reconstruction..

Yes, you would make a hole on one side to pour foam and one on the other to let the air and surplus foam out. Then trim the foam and fiberglass over the deck.

 

[BMcF]

Yes, you would make a hole on one side to pour foam and one on the other to let the air and surplus foam out. Then trim the foam and fiberglass over the deck.

yes but...for a dozen such "compartments"... I might go that route though.

 

[CaptTator]

yes but...for a dozen such "compartments"... I might go that route though.

Honestly- if I had the time and money- idve put in 3x3 stringers. It's only 3in deep: so that would give you a lovely floor that basically self leveled- then screw your decking of choice to it.

 

[CaptTator]

Not a huge fan of either approach. The thing about plastic cores is they are rather difficult to get leakproof in the application you are choosing. Same with the 1” plug. You want about 1/8” glue margin for the thickened resin.

And to make matters more complex, I see pvc tubes, no? Epoxy does not stick well to pvc. Rather poorly actually. The one thing that sticks well to pvc is black mamba fhg. The pvc needs to be taken out if you are going to use epoxy. Please trust me. I’ve tried many ways and they all failed.

Hey! Sorry I'm so late with the reply!

-those are pvc wire conduit for controls - but I decided to glass in decking over it- so the pvc only sticks up through the floor for wiring/motor controls!

 

[CaptTator]

Not a huge fan of either approach. The thing about plastic cores is they are rather difficult to get leakproof in the application you are choosing. Same with the 1” plug. You want about 1/8” glue margin for the thickened resin.

And to make matters more complex, I see pvc tubes, no? Epoxy does not stick well to pvc. Rather poorly actually. The one thing that sticks well to pvc is black mamba fhg. The pvc needs to be taken out if you are going to use epoxy. Please trust me. I’ve tried many ways and they all failed.

Hey man!
Did the plug idea. How do I prep the outside to have a piece of thin glass put over it? Here's what I've done :

left a 1/8th gap for epoxy thickened to peanut butter-

do I need to go wider on my sanding?

 

[fallguy]

Is the gray glass or gel?

You need to be down to glass. Then I prefer to fill such a hole with smallest first csm patches. Tear them, not scissor cut. Use maybe 3 pieces of csm. The smallest piece needs to go over the old glass, not gel.

That is enough grinding if the gray is glass.

Epoxy might not be best if you want to gelcoat.

 

[CaptTator]

Is the gray glass or gel?

You need to be down to glass. Then I prefer to fill such a hole with smallest first csm patches. Tear them, not scissor cut. Use maybe 3 pieces of csm. The smallest piece needs to go over the old glass, not gel.

That is enough grinding if the gray is glass.

Epoxy might not be best if you want to gelcoat.

Im going oil based paint (duck boat),

and the grey is glass!

 

[fallguy]

If you are painting, just use epoxy. And don’t pay attention to naysayers, just get some csm and do 3-6 layers smallest to bigger until the tapered hole is almost filled; it works nicer for this sort of thing..if the hole gets an qir pocket; just stop and remove the piece with the air pocket and do the repair in two steps after the first piece cures; you may find it easier to use a little thickened epoxy putty before adding the rest of the patch

 

[CaptTator]

If you are painting, just use epoxy. And don’t pay attention to naysayers, just get some csm and do 3-6 layers smallest to bigger until the tapered hole is almost filled; it works nicer for this sort of thing..if the hole gets an qir pocket; just stop and remove the piece with the air pocket and do the repair in two steps after the first piece cures; you may find it easier to use a little thickened epoxy putty before adding the rest of the patch

Gotcha! I'll get it done today and report back with pictures!

 

[CaptTator]

If you are painting, just use epoxy. And don’t pay attention to naysayers, just get some csm and do 3-6 layers smallest to bigger until the tapered hole is almost filled; it works nicer for this sort of thing..if the hole gets an qir pocket; just stop and remove the piece with the air pocket and do the repair in two steps after the first piece cures; you may find it easier to use a little thickened epoxy putty before adding the rest of the patch

Well- I got the pucks in . Dunked them in resin and fit them. Then I used thickened epoxy to fill it (completely forgot to throw in my chopped glass), so tomorrow ill go back over it with chopped, and then a layer of glass mat

 

[CaptTator]

Well- I got the pucks in . Dunked them in resin and fit them. Then I used thickened epoxy to fill it (completely forgot to throw in my chopped glass), so tomorrow ill go back over it with chopped, and then a layer of glass mat

Thoughts? (Go easy as this is the first time I've ever done this)
-epoxied in
-mixed cabisol (NASTY STUFF)
-mixed in chopped fibers
- then lightly filled that hole,

next is to let it kick,
Sand with 250 -

and then glass mat over it,

 

[CaptTator]

If you are painting, just use epoxy. And don’t pay attention to naysayers, just get some csm and do 3-6 layers smallest to bigger until the tapered hole is almost filled; it works nicer for this sort of thing..if the hole gets an qir pocket; just stop and remove the piece with the air pocket and do the repair in two steps after the first piece cures; you may find it easier to use a little thickened epoxy putty before adding the rest of the patch

*images of holes I forgot*