Can one of you upnorth painters help this guy

nopers, mekp will contaminate bad, it doesnt fully evaporate, and will spread fisheyes down half ya boat. ( my 5 year old was mad on her first day of school cause the bus wasnt one of the short ones haha) ,,, and the sanding should remove it,, remember to change ya paper after about a third of the time ya usually do,, it seems like ya wasting,, but ya just making it ALL go away

 

Well that would explain why I have this problem. The last thing I cleaned the bad area with was MEK before I top coated.

 

yuppers that could be one,, lots of things that most wouldnt think will mess up a great job, but least its yours i've painted boats 90 foot long that the surveyor went over with a big magnifying glass,, hahahha then what a headache he ended up with 1 place was next to an airport,, i painted the boat in their shop 2 times,, before bringing it to mine,, we think it was the jet fuel in the air causing MASSIVE fisheyes

 

so much for a nice paint job. I planned on going in today and putting on the final coat, it went a little different then I planned. On all the flat areas of the boat you could see some small fisheye poks from the diesel fumes. They were not bad but it was something I could not live with so I started sanding it all down with 220. Once I got that done I then decide to just sand the entire boat. There was some orange peel in some spots so I took a little spray primer sprayed the hull and sanded until the primer was gone. Now that I know a bit more of what I am doing I will end up with a much smoother hull. All of this puts be back a few days schedule wise and it is getting cold fast but at least it will be right.

time for a beer or two or a dozen!

 

i usually sand the primer with 320,, but that might jus be preference,, is just what we always did,, and go slap those air polluting yucks!

 

MEK is BAD!!! -- Much doesn't even sniff that stuff. I hope you were wearing gloves and already have your Grand Kids. Denatured Alcohol is the best, but if you really need something stronger use Acetone.

 

shhhhhhhhhh kapt. ,, dont tell him about acetone,,, his next post will be asking us how to get the resin back into his glass hahahahaaha

 

You can blame the MEK and Acetone on Don Casey. I think that is what he says to use to remove the wax from the hull before sanding.

Alcohol pretty good as a final rub down before I tack clothed it. Paint I hope the final coat tomorrow afternoon. Then a day to dry and I will start taping off the nonskid so I can get started on that.

 

kapt, when you roll and tip do you keep your brush in the reducer before you tip or do you keep the brush dry? I have only done it with a dry brush and then I clean it about half way through. I wonder however how it will do if it was a little damp with reducer.

 

Ron,
I always keep at least one brush in acetone that I move along with me with my feet. As soon as I feel the paint building on the brush I switch out. I dry the brush before I use it. Spin / Wipe. I haven't tried reducer on the brush, but I would imagine you would get inconsistencies in drying times. Reducer is too expensive for me to use as a brush cleaner.

 

be careful when ya spin the brush not to get any drops on the boat,, you'll end up seeing them too.,,,,,, see isnt painting boats so easy and so MUCH fun hahaha

 

70 today and I got I hope the last coat before the non-skid. That Ustore it gets hot when the sun is out. No deisel this time which is a good thing. I did not want to take up boxing today. All the sanding made a huge difference maybe the deisel issue I had the other day was a good thing.

Dry today and then tape off for the nonskid part. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Any good tricks to keep the paint from creaping under the taped areas? I am planning on using 3M's fineline poly tape.

 

only thing i can add to 3m fineline is push down hard,, then do it 2 more times. then tape your plastic to the fineline with GOOD masking tape least 2inch tape.after you tape your gonna sand right? and best advice for after your done painting,,,get that tape off as soon as possible,, for me its between 12 and 24 hours,,,you slo. ,,, i mean tippers it might be longer then the 12,,but i wouldnt wait over 24,,, nother thing on taping,,,,,,clean, clean,,clean first

 

ya I am going to rough up the primer with 120 grit after I tape. Then two coats of cream with flattening agent and coarse grit. I should only have it taped for 2-3 days at the most. Do I need to worry about pulling the paint off with the tape or more of it removing the shine?

 

after you tape sand up to tape line with 320,, or since you've been using 220 use that, but take ya time, and dont sand your tape.. it'll make it thin and give ya a choppy line and might not come off good,,3 days being slow and careful is better then 2 weeks of re-doing. and fineline is made not to take ya shine off,or stick, but what happens is the paint on your tape, sticks to your paintjob,, like an eggshell around an egg. the paint on your tape is continuous with the paint on your deck,, like trying to rip a piece of paper. thats why its not good to let the paint dry all the way before pulling. one dude that taught me to paint would get done cleaning his gun, then go pull tape.but he also used one of those wimpy fresh air suites,, i get to many "fumes" to dare pull tape that soon