Can I use a" dutchman repair" on a steam bent white oak rib?

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by J Arena, Apr 9, 2011.

  1. J Arena
    Joined: Apr 2011
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    Location: Rhode Island

    J Arena New Member

    Can I use a dutchman repair on a steam bent white oak rib, using another piece of solid white oak instead of laminating white oak strips? The ribs have been sistered with laminated white oak strips, however they do not run the entire length of the rib. I basically want to strengthen the original rib by removing the damaged piece and replacing it with a 12:1 scarf of solid white oak. I am new to this forum and to wood boats and would appreciate any input i can get!!!!
     
  2. Squidly-Diddly
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: SF bay

    Squidly-Diddly Senior Member

    post some pics, and some photos with drawings over them of what you are

    talking about.

    Many of our most knowledgeable posters are English As Second Language.

    This ain't like a car where someone can just tell you ".....1972 Ford? 1/2" alternator bolt, two black wires...etc....".
     
  3. viking north
    Joined: Dec 2010
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    Location: Newfoundland & Nova Scotia

    viking north VINLAND

    As stated above it's hard to tell without a visual several in fact from different views also include an exterior shot to indicate if there is a plank join. I personally don't like scarfing a frame I perfer replacing it whole if possible or sistering. If the damage area is on a plank join why not scarf in a new piece and sister a frame to make it that much stronger.

    A yacht is not defined by the vessel but by the care and love of her owner.
     

  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    A scarfed in repair is acceptable and 12:1 is a good ratio. It's a much cleaner look too, under paint invisible. Sisters are an acceptable repair, but add weight, clutter up the framing and generally is the "down and dirty" way of repairing a rib.

    In a perfect world, you can replace the rib. In reality this isn't often possible for many reasons. The scarfed in repair should be as long as practical in the area. It can be done with a lamination or solid repair piece.

    On white oak, it's important to carefully prep the area for epoxy, with an acetone scrub and rinse just prior to applying epoxy to the joint areas. This removes the surface contaminates that might screw with the bond. Lastly, the rib and repair piece need to be dry, below 15%, preferably below 12%.
     

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