Can I Use 4 Stroke Oil To Burn In A 2 Stroke Sea Doo ?

I need to know more about salad oil. Can I cut it with a vinegarette and get a few more horsepower, or will I just over power the lettuce?
Seriously though, I would really like to see some test data on vegetable oils in two strokes, if it is a safe thing to do, I'd like to use it.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Google for "oil temperature".
You'll find topics from kitchen chefs and technical sources. The burning temperature of vegetable oil varies between 240 C. for cheap corn oil and 400+ for olive oil and avocado oil.
Remember that when the first engines were developed, the fuel was ethanol or methanol, with vegetable oil for lubrication. The swing towards fossil fuels was not to improve performance but because it seemed a cheap source. Governments greedily invented taxes once mechanization accelerated, but by then vegetable products were forgotten.

I've been using olive and sunflower oil for outboards, chainsaws and small generators nearly 15 years now.

For my boat diesels I use the cheapest supermarket mineral oil I can find. With car engines you have to be careful during the warranty period, so the Sorento gets overly expensive synthetic oil until the end of this year. The Porsche 928S also gets the same cheap oil since 1985 because it needs 14 liters to reach the dipstick marking and the manual says to change the whole lot after 10000 km. and buy a new $85 filter.

If you switch to olive oil, buy the cheapest, clear stuff because that has been filtered and heat treated. The expensive ones have protein particles which may leave a carbon residue.

 

I definitely realize the difference between 2 stroke outboard and 2 stroke diesel. As long as I've been using Delo (250 hrs?) The plugs are clean and I dont get excessive smoke. It would seem those are the tell tale signs of whats happening inside. ???
I like the olive oil idea. Kind of like some biodiesel setups smelling like french fries. I once ran out of crank oil in an old Honda 5 4 stroke. All we had was canola on board. It got us home (1 hr) and still runs today.

 

CDK. Thanks for all your input. I will be trying the olive oil route this weekend.

 

Dont forget castor bean oil as in
Castrol R
I wonder if you could cook your chips in it

 

Thanks for this follow up post. I have a freshly rebuilt powerhead and once I get it past break in I think I'll give olive oil a go. I might start conservatively and mix 50/50 olive/2 stroke first. I know you've used it for 15 years, but I just want to convince myself!
I fully agree with you regarding 4 stroke oil too, I've been running middle of the road mineral diesel oils in all my vehicles for several years now, it's cheap and has a fantastic additive package for severe use. I run it in everything from motorcycles to high output turbocharged petrol engines.
For my purposes, the extended drain intervals synthetics supposedly allow don't make economic sense to me, as I have to change my oils on time in service, I never hit mileage intervals.
People seem to forget time in service with synthetics, I was talking to a guy who was bragging about having the same oil in the sump for two years (lots of short trips around town)...I asked him what he does about condensation, fuel contamination, acid build up etc of his oil. When I explained it to him, he turned white......
Anyway, I am definitely going to look in to olive oil, it's a win on cost and the environment, thanks very much for the heads up.

Regards, Andrew.

 

This is an old post, but 'NO!' The only 4 stroke oil recommended for outboards is Aeroshell W80, a 40W ashless oil. It's recommended only for older motors with bushings, no needle and roller bearings at 25:1, and you can also run TC-W3 at 25:1 in those motors. Not only should you avoid 4 stroke oil in a classic or modern outboard, you should stick to TC-W3 oils recommended by the manufacturers: Evinrude, Mercury, Suzuki, Yamaha TC-W3 oil can be used with success in any 2 stroke outboard. I'm leaving out 2 stroke synthetic oils here, various ones are recommended in other places.

 

Castor oil is very versatile and is used to synthesize lots of organic compounds. The chips you fry in castor oil will be the last meal you'll enjoy on this planet though. The ricine it contains was used by terrorists in a Japanese subway attack....

 

This is a confusing thread. It sounds like all the engines in the original question are oil injected 2-strokes so sharing fuel would be just fine. However all the talk about 4 stroke oil implies I've missed something.
Here are some of my opinions and comments on what has been said.
Four stroke oil should almost NEVER be used in a 2 stroke. There's many additives that don't apply ..like an additive in 4s oil that inhibits the fuel mixing w the oil in the crankcase to prevent dilution and promote burn off or evaporation. And in 2-stroke oil there's an additive to promote the oil mixing w the fuel. There are many other additives in 4 stroke oil that may be as undesirable in a 2 stroke.
As for 2 stroke pre-mix fuel (w oil added) in a 4 stroke there are lots of situations where this could actually be an advantage. I have poured tens of tanks of somewhat old pre-mix fuel in numerous cars to burn it up. In the 60s I even did that w 24-1 mix in a 53 Chevrolet. Didn't even smoke w 24-1.
Never had a problem. For about 15 years I ran 50-1 mix in my Sears riding 4-stroke lawnmower. Never seemed to wear out. One could call it an upper cyl lubricant. Don't use 4-stroke oil for this in a 4-stroke as upper cyl lube .. must be 2-stroke oil for upper cyl lube.
Also don't put 2-stroke oil in a car or truck w catalitic converters .. fouls them up.
The Delo 100 idea sounds interesting but w modern oils there's so many additives (about 15 or so I think) that one would think there must be additives that would be undesirable in a regular 2-stroke. Big difference in the application .. in a DD the oil basically dosn't get exposed to combustion .. so wouldn't need the ability to get burn't off cleanly. Also since the D100 oil is labeled non-detergent one is led to believe it's pure oil .. no additives but I'll bet there are many. Asking a Chevron Distributor may shed some light on this.
I'm now going to make a statement and invite feedback. I have a 40hp Evinrude E-tech and after break in I was supposed to take it to my dealer to have the computer change the oil mix from 50-1 to 100-1. I'm thinking that if it wasn't for the emissions factor Evinrude would not spec 100-1 and I will be doing my engine a favor by staying at 50-1. I'm guessing that the Yamaha 2-strokes are able to pass the emission standards only because they run 100-1. I run 50-1 in my Yamaha 8hp 2-stroke. Any knowledge or thoughts.

Easy Rider

 

The emission standard is something I've not considered; not in my answers and not in my own habits concerning 2 stroke engines.

From an environmentalist's view it is better to abandon 2 strokes completely because no matter what you do, the oil ends up in the environment. But there are still many around and sales has not yet been banned, although on several lakes in Europe the use of 2 strokes is regarded as a criminal act and severely punished.

Using a lean mixture of 100:1 reduces the amount of oil in the exhaust by 50%, but because such a mixture asks a lot from the oil as a lubricant, it requires an expensive concoction with an additive like silicone to make the oil virtually incombustible. Engine life and friction losses are better served with a 50:1 mixture where even with combustion of the lighter fractions there remains enough oil to maintain a film on the cylinder wall.

A the heart of this matter is not the desire to reduce emission but just commercial considerations where an engine with less "oil demand" is advertised as a superior product. The fact that the break in period (= critical warranty period) needs a 50:1 mixture suggests how small the margins really are.

 

CDK
Dont forget the epa measure total emissions from an engine so to say that they might be clean but oil ends up where it shouldnt is a bit if a misnomer as it sounds like that part has not been measured.

If Co2 is the big polluter now the E-tecs produce 50% less than a comparible 4 stroke ( in the mid range) and hence why neither the EPA nor the EU will ban a technology only emissions.

4 strokes dont have to explain where the used oil and filter goes...

Cheers

 

Yes Powerabout, it is all arbitrary. Rules are made by bureaucrats and under the surface there are misconceptions, hidden agendas and plain ignorance.
I cherish a vintage Porsche which obtained California's approval only because an air pump dilutes the exhaust gases so it passed the emission test at idle.

For many years the tetra-ethyl-lead to improve the gasoline octane number has been banned almost worldwide, but such heavy metal compounds are allowed without restrictions as oil additives.

We are not allowed to dig a hole and pour used engine oil in because that is considered pollution, but we obtained that oil by digging a hole somewhere else and pumping it up.

Probably having stupid rules is better than having no rules at all: even with the rules my white RV comes back from a 1000 mile trip through Europe covered with a hard to remove deposit of soot, oil and other stuff that certainly will be unhealthy.

 

First, exhaust tuning is standard on modern 2 strokes since about 1970, that uses sound waves to create a supercharging effect of ramming most of the mixture initially 'lost' through the exhaust ports back into the cylinder before the exhaust port closes. Second, additives in modern 2 stroke oil are biodegradable.

 

Running a 4 stroke oil in a 2 stroke motor is not ok unless it's ashless, and so far as I know only Aeroshell is ashless. Second, the synthetic oils made for Rotax motors (Seedoo) can gum up a 2 stroke motor that runs at lower temperatures (like an outboard turning only 6800 RPM).

 

I think you're right about the E-Tec. Doesn't it have a rev-limiter to prevent going over 6000 RPM? I would run XD-100 in it at 50:1. I have friends who race a ca. 1993 OMC V-6 looper at 9000 RPM. Using XD-100 @ 50:1. Good oil!